Cooking and eating vegetarian food for nearly the past two decades hasn’t been all about coping with self-imposed limitations for me (I’m pretty permissive, actually), it’s also inspired and motivated me to have fun with food and make damned sure that my meals are anything but boring. This mission led me to explore wine on the off chance that a good bottle could take my food to the next level, or fill in a missing flavor puzzle piece, and keep cooking interesting.
I never saw myself caring about pairing wine and food until I realized that the most common advice assumed the food in question was meat or seafood. Red meat = red wine. Chicken and fish = white wine. Aside from the unbelievable oversimplification, why should meat-eaters claim grape juice as their domain? Wouldn’t you think fermented grape juice would naturally compliment something besides meat? Like say, other plant matter, maybe? Some other quadrants of the food pyramid, perhaps? Not every main dish revolves around animal products, not to mention all those awesome veggie side dishes that aren’t getting their due. And are we doomed to the token recommendations of whites wine and light reds, so as not to overwhelm “delicate” vegetable flavors? And lastly, I want the non-vegetarians to know that you don’t have to run out and buy some meat just so you can enjoy a really special bottle of wine. If Starbucks is “pairing” their burnt bean brew with microwaved frozen egg sandwiches, there’s got to be a better way to approach pairing wine and food.
To explore this issue deeper, I asked 10 year vegetarian and 7 year wine professional, John Witherspoon, to help me get a handle on these questions and to start a discussion among visitors to this site. I contend that vegetarianism fuels my appreciation of wine (as novice and cheap as I am with it), and wine education has added a great deal to my palate as a moderately conscientious eater. Reading John’s blog over the years, I was happy to see him combine adventures in wine geekery and vegetarian epicureanism. John’s name above links to the wine shop of which he recently took ownership, the Wine Cellar, way out on Midlothian. Be sure to visit him if you enjoy his contribution below, or to continue the debate if you don’t (and non-prose readers, scroll down to catch ‘the lightening round’ at the end – very useful cheat-sheet). The questions were all mine. The answers were all John’s. No prompting or conspiring. We actually haven’t met yet, but I hope to visit his shop soon. Read on!
Me: Why do we pair wine with food? Why is the wine and food better together than they are when consumed separately, or what’s going on between the corresponding flavors?
John: We pair food and wine because it’s the right thing to do, and in actuality wine can and should be considered just another food item on the dinner table. Although there are certain “perfect pairings”, the rules of pairing are not written in stone. Usually when pairing food with wine it can be broken down into two things, the acidity and/or the tannin structure of the wine. For instance, the reason Chianti (a Sangiovese based wine) goes so well with tomato based dishes is because of the acidity of the tomato is matched with the acidic backbone of the Sangiovese grape. (more…)