Guest blog by Chef Jen Mindell of Cafe Gutenberg, which is STILL OPEN, serves an amazing banh mi sandwich (pork or vegan) and is currently, and sadly, for sale.
Hello, this is Jen Mindell from Cafe Gutenberg. RVAfoodie was kind enough to let me use this forum to address some issues that I feel strongly about, and to clear up some misconceptions about the sale of our restaurant.
First and foremost, some background: I’ve been the Chef at Cafe Gutenberg in Shockoe Bottom for about 5 years. The original incarnation of the business was a European bookstore/ coffeeshop/ wine lounge that was a great concept, but perhaps a little out of place in working class Richmond at the time it opened. It was well- loved by its regulars, but struggled to be accepted in a social and financial climate that was demanding more sustainable and accessible offerings. In short, fine dining and European were on their way out, while local and affordable were on their way in. Not to mention independent bookstores were dissapearing in the wake of Borders and Barnes and Noble. Had the original owners opened last year, the year of the wine lounge, perhaps it would have done really well, but who knows. Food trends are fickle, fast and hard to predict and for whatever reason, Cafe Gutenberg’s original formula just didn’t take off.
So three years ago my boss sold the business and 20 of us were left without jobs. My co- chef/ partner Garrett and I had long believed that if we stripped the business down to just food, no frills, that the community would come back to us. Both of us are from working class backgrounds yet came up in higher end kitchens, so we longed for the opportunity to use our classical training in a different way- cooking simple food that people like us could afford in a place that we felt welcome, as- is.
In a rare turn of events, we were offered the opportunity to take over the business and despite the fact that we had little more than 6 grand, awesom staff and our chops, we said lets do it. And it worked. We designed a menu that we could afford to produce and our customers could afford to enjoy, focusing on the way that the rest of the world eats- mostly vegetables and grains with a little bit of protein. We bought old furniture and used the bookshelves to build wainscotting and server stations. My father came down from Vermont and built roomy tables out of refurbished lumber. We caught a lot of flack from people who called the decor “shabby” and I’ll admit that the framed photocopies of cookbook illustrations left much to be desired, haha. But the fact is that we put our limited resources into what mattered to us- the food- and we’re proud of that decision. We were able to give 20 people their jobs back and purchase pricier but worthwhile local ingredients for our customers, two things that wouldn’t have been possible had we not been thrifty with the renovations.
Our first 6 months were amazing, brutal but amazing, and we were so pleasantly surprised that people supported the decisions we had made. We had opened a restaurant at the onset of a recession and brought an empty spot back to life. Say what you want about decor and ambiance, but when it comes down to it people still appreciate food that is made with honesty, love and skill at a great value.
But it hasn’t been easy- our first winter was pretty scary in fact. The meat of the recession had hit, the storms flooded our dining room and kept people indoors, and downtown turned into a ghost town after 5pm, people rushing home before the roads iced up. We didn’t know what to expect so we saved every penny, worked our butts off and panicked like most newbies do. Business returned in droves once March hit, and then the formula repeated itself for our second year, almost like clockwork.
As is the case with many restaurants, our sales from the summer sustained us through the winter. We saw so many spots close in the city, places we thought were immune to the cycle, that it really sunk in how lucky we were to have loyal customers who embraced what we were doing. Sure we had some debt and some premature gray hairs (no fair Im only 31!), but we had survived to see a third spring- yay!
At some point we had to admit our limits though. We had a prime location that was well beyond our means, and twice as many seats as we needed. We had a thousand marketing ideas without a clue as to which were smart investments. We knew the service wasn’t perfect but no matter our efforts simply lacked the wisdom to take it there. In short, we were still two chefs without a strong business partner to fill in the rest of the equation.
In February we agreed that we needed to pass the space on to someone who could get their arms around it. We sat the staff down and told them one by one, and then we put it up for sale. It was alot like breaking up with someone you love who’s just not “the one”. You want it to be right but you know that you’re both holding back to make it work.
It didn’t take long for the rumors to fly. Selling a business is a lot different than closing one, but the public often views it as the same- understandable but unfortunate. Style weekly asked me for an interview to dispel the rumors that we were closing, and I was happy to oblige. I had a very nice converstaion with Vernal over coffee, he was down to earth and we talked about future plans, the awesome response to our food, the mixed reviews of our service, and successes and failures as owners. I admitted that opening without a financial cushion had been a struggle all along. And that despite the fantastic location perhaps we were better suited to a smaller space. All in all, I was happy with how it went and honored that Style was interested enough in our plans for the future to send someone in for the scoop.
Next thing I knew our very simple story had garnered us inclusion in an article I barely recognized. Doom and gloom jumped off the page, starting with the title “Gutenberg For Sale; Others Eye Exit”. The headline implied that our decision was due to location while the content focused on neighborhood violence, economic downturn, and the supposed inability of restaurants to coexist with Shockoe Bottom nightlife. It was the same over dramatized story I’d read a dozen times before. The sale was barely touched on except as evidence that we had been pushed out by clubs, a fact that couldn’t be further from the truth. The one sentence chosen as quote-worthy from our conversation was “last winter was financially brutal”. How embarrassing. The comment was made about bad weather affecting our weekends, not about the neighborhood, but out of context it served to align us with a story of mass exodus.
I was hurt. I had opened up about a pretty big decision and felt totally misrepresented. The very reasons we love our neighborhood- diversity, lack of pretense, authenticity… were under attack (again), and this time with our name on it.
A low blow, but there wasn’t much to be done. I guess “Restaurant for Sale Because Owners Want a Smaller Space” just isn’t the catchiest story. I don’t blame Vernal professionally, it’s his job, though personally I feel blindsided. Because I DO have a position on the political issues of Shockoe Bottom, but it certainly isn’t the one espoused in his article…
I have long believed that Shockoe Bottom’s struggle to be embraced by Richmond has more to do with the barrage of irresponsible media jabs, pitting us against each other and harping on race and class, than it does a legitimate disparity between business owners. When we struggle, we all struggle, and if the clubs do better numbers than restaurants do in hard times it’s because their product (fun) is consistently irreplaceable, no matter the economic climate.
Anyone who thinks that’s unfair or indicative of a bad neighborhood should consider the fact that food alone just isn’t as lucrative an industry as nightlife. Look at the trend nationally in fine dining- you wont find a success story without a well-paid mixologist to supplement what nowadays chefs are hard pressed to do- pay the bills with food alone. Look at the fan bars who soar above the rest of us, leaving even destination restaurants in their wake. It’s because they offer a place for people to be social, and are successful at it. The media doesn’t begrudge them their success, or demonize their customers as a cultural threat the way they do to clubs in the Bottom. In fact Style Weekly dedicates a column to covering the wild antics of Richmond bars- or certain ones I should say.
My point is that people like to party allover, rich or poor. And as a fan resident I can say that the mob of 2am drunk college kids surrounding West Main St is as intrusive as any nightlife anywhere. But just as with our Shockoe Bottom night spots, I applaud their business savvy rather than blaming them for the less lucrative path I’ve chosen. Food is a passion, not a guaranteed moneymaker, and despite what these stories would have you believe we restaurant owners struggle no matter who or what is next door. That’s just par for the course til you get it right.
If I had to chalk the Shockoe Bottom lore up to something more than that I’d say Richmond is a relatively small city and it’s unfortunate but true that without some sort of crisis to report, we as a community often create it. Despite our wish to be progressive, there is a thick layer of prejudice here that makes certain neighborhoods an easy target for both media and merchants. I can’t say that race and class don’t play a part in this, but I think it has just as much to do with economic fear and anxiety than it does with inherent racism. And the last few years have been no exception to the way communities often try to “explain away” their tough times.
Human nature is funny, and I hate to call us sheep, though we kind of are, just really complicated ones. Another thing we do when times are tough is surround ourselves with places and things that are just a bit beyond our means, giving us something to aspire to. And we avoid the the things that mirror our own reality, whether that be people, businesses, or even whole neighborhoods.
Carytown for example is beautiful, but quite expensive, and is not always filled with people who can afford its shops as much as people who wish they could. Short Pump Town Center is a virtual dose of affluence, and its chain restaurants are consequently packed to the gills with people who just really dig BEING THERE. Areas that have been revitalized by the city are designed to make us feel good this way so we want to spend our money there, and it works. The economy of a neighborhood has a better chance of survival when we’re given the allure of possibilities and prosperity.
Shockoe Bottom, on the other hand, is a community of it’s own design. The real deal, baby. It hasn’t been dolled up by the city, and the businesses here have chosen it instead of vice versa. Consequently it has the elements that a collective prejudice tends to prey on: It has a rich nightlife culture that’s predominantly working class. It has some empty storefronts that “must be vacant for a reason”. It’s businesses are small and, with that, the margin for error is fragile. It isn’t yet filled with expensive boutiques to make people feel the false security of life- improving knicknacks . In short, it’s a very REAL snapshot of your average American city. Pretty badass if you ask me. But instead of receiving support, its merchants get put under the microscope, the media trying to glean some greater story from the everyday struggles of small business. Looking for the villain when there just isnt one, and desperate to deny the fact that times are tough all over, we just SEE it better when it isnt wearing a mask.
Its unfortunate, because Shockoe is probably the most locally- owned neighborhood in all of Richmond. And yet it hasn’t earned the collective support of those who call themselves localvores. We’re willing (and proud) of where we spend our money, but (I include myself when I ask this question) how bout where we spend our time? Too often I think we place ‘local’ as a high priority on our grocery list but dont think about how our presence and commerce in a community can help push local government to take notice, and take care.
That being said, some of the worst attacks on this neighborhood have come from it’s own merchants. There has been a pervasive us-against-them attitude expressed towards the young black of Shockoe Bottom, and claims made by business owners who report losing customers due to fear of violence. Again I don’t disagree with those who call this racism, but I believe that the core might be simpler- people like to have someone to blame when they fail. Some cant accept the fact that when you’re small, the community will see you struggle, and judge you. But thats just the way it is, and frankly that vulnerability, that willingness to try and fail transparently is what separates a business worth supporting from one whose intentions should surely be questioned.
Thanks for letting me ramble, now I guess I’ll get down to it.
For the record, Cafe Gutenberg does not want any part of this anti-club agenda. Not only is it based on myth, stereotype, sour grapes and overplayed youtube videos, but it has nothing to do with our decision to seek a smaller space. We love our neighborhood, we support our neighbors, and we own our success and failures as a business.
We’re not closing, rather looking for a successor. This spot will be absolutely amazing for someone with more resources, and we’re excited to pass the torch and see it grow. For now, we’ll keep doing what we love to do, which is cook for you, and keep our eyes peeled for a cozy spot that feels right. Thank you so much for being the best customers ever- we hope this is just the beginning of many years to grow and learn together as part of an awesome community.
Thanks for the insight Jen. Whether folks agree or disagree with you; one thing’s for sure, this is a well-thought-out and informed opinion.
I will always maintain that since you took over Cafe Gutenberg I have enjoyed some of the best evenings of my tenure in Richmond sitting by the window in your “shabby” dining room.
As I said in my article, I can’t wait to see what comes next.
Very well said, Jen! I live right up the street from Cafe Gutenberg and I feel the same way about Shockoe Bottom. Can’t wait to follow you all when you eventually find a new location and here’s hoping the successor to your current location is as great of a neighborhood staple as you all are!
Thank you Jen for putting into words exactly how I feel about the neighborhood I live in. Every time someone puts down Shockoe Bottom I always find myself getting worked up to defend it and not being able to do it justice. Your comments make perfect talking points on the issue. The neighborhood might not be for everyone, but no neighborhood is. I would never live here if it was just another Short Pump or Fan. Are you looking at any of the smaller spaces in the Bottom for your new venture? I always wondered why more restaurants didn’t snatch up the retail space on the street level of many of the loft apartment buildings in the area.
In Vernal Coleman’s story for Style, it was made clear that Cafe Gutenberg wasn’t blaming the clubs for its situation, though many members of the community are — as seen in our significant reporting on City Hall’s efforts to crack down on Richmond nightlife. This has adversely affected businesses in the Bottom, and there are certainly varied opinions, such as Jen’s, as well as the vocal bar owner Mac McCormack, David Napier and others about what should be done. There has yet to be consensus, but Shockoe Bottom (just steps from our offices) is an integral part of our city and we’ll continue to report on its progress and the forces at work.
Here’s another excerpt from the story Jen mentions:
“Gutenberg’s tenuous future may be emblematic of the Bottom, which has struggled in the wake of recent nightclub-related violence and the financial downturn. While Gutenberg’s owners say the growing nightclub scene hasn’t seriously affected their business — it draws mostly brunch and lunch crowds — the Bottom has yet to fully recover from a devastating flood in August 2004, when Tropical Storm Gaston overwhelmed the city’s drainage system and left the Bottom under water.”
I vacationed in Richmond in March as a surprise birthday trip. I have spent the majority of my life in California and have traveled all over eating amazing vegan food. I am proud to say all my trips are culinary adventures! But never have I had a meal as amazing at my brunch (and lunch to go!) at Cafe Gutenberg. I will be keeping an eye out for Jen Mindell’s next endeavor and you can bet I’ll be on the next plane from Portland, Oregon to Richmond, Virginia!
Thanks to Jen for writing this, and to Jason for giving her a forum.
The meals I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy at Cafe Gutenberg have been the best I’ve had since moving to Richmond. Jen, you are fantastic at what you do, and I’ll be by to see you again before you move on, then following you to the new spot.
Shabby? Pish. Fabby? Yes.
Great article! Would love for Cafe Gutenberg to stay in the Bottom somehow…..fingers crossed…
Thanks Jason for giving Jen a chance to speak her piece. Also if I could hire a skywriter this is what I’d print for all of RVA to see “…Shockoe is probably the most locally- owned neighborhood in all of Richmond. And yet it hasn’t earned the collective support of those who call themselves localvores. Too often I think we place ‘local’ as a high priority on our grocery list but dont think about how our presence and commerce in a community can help push local government to take notice, and take care.”
It’s totally my privilege to host Jen’s treatise. I’d long thought Cafe Gutenberg was misunderstood and under-appreciated (including by me, as I wrote on this site about my sticker-shock at the price of a cup of Illy coffee – they’ve since switched to locally roasted Black Hand coffee). When Jen confided in me that she was closing and all the turmoil that went into that decision, I was adamant that she/we find some way to get her story out there.
When Jen was outraged with her restaurant’s portrayal in Style and then livid that Boom Boom cited her restaurant as supporting evidence in their unfortunate rant, it was clear something had to be done to correct the public’s perception of Shockoe Bottom as well as Cafe Gutenberg’s decision to close. Leading up to this post, I probably emailed and Facebook messaged Jen a couple dozen times, “Are you done yet? Are you done yet?”
Hopefully, this post is just the beginning.
Would love to see you guys move into the fan or especially the Museum District. Pretty sure you’d be better-loved here
What a great response to the community and cheers to Jason for giving you a platform to share your voice. We have had a few local reporters come in fishing for a negative comments but are not interested in contributing to that conversation. Solutions and support of one another seems to be the more helpful path.
It was meaningful to hear your truth and your perspective rather than the constant thumping negative soundbites some of our local media often defaults to….
Fair thee well on your new path!
I think that the it is easy to cast aspersions on the club scene and general demographics of the Shockoe area. From my experience, however, these are ill-founded. I interviewed a few owners of Shockoe businesses, all food industry-related, and they all told me that Shockoe is not only an amenable location to their businesses, but that the area has improved over the last several years.
This is really interesting topic. I don’t mean to self-promote; just contribute to a conversation that I think the city should have: http://bit.ly/jxsDYt
Nathan. Your story seems like a worthy link to add here. Glad you caught this piece. Gonna post a link back over there in return.
Thank you for this, Jen, and Jason for providing a space for this side of the story. Shockoe really does have a lot to offer beyond the blank overblown “clubs and violence!” hype that seems to be harped on time and time again.
These are interesting comments, but it’s too easy to blame media outlets for seemingly portraying a “negative message” about Shockoe Bottom. Just recently it was a group of Shockoe residents who were circulating a petition against some of these clubs.
In Style, we have published a number of editorials defending Shockoe Bottom and downtown, in addition to coverage of the history and businesses down there (most recently see last week’s issue about Havana’s salsa nights, or this week’s Bar Guide). We also led local coverage on the city’s noise ordinance, which turned out to be unconstitutional, and questioned the handling of new dancehall ordinances that were put upon clubs. We also looked into the city’s reaction to the Chris Brown party in Shockoe, for which police showed up on horses ready for a mob scene. (Here’s a cover story on the forces at work: http://www.styleweekly.com/richmond/after-the-party/Content?oid=1442388).
Shockoe Bottom is growing, and there are conflicting ideas about how it should develop. As far as I’ve seen there’s been no inclusive, focused discussion of how Shockoe should be growing. As more people move into the area, we’ll keep watching to see how (or if) our city leaders will take a role in helping shape this important part of Richmond.
Do you have thoughts on Shockoe Bottom’s growth? How should the people living and running businesses in this area plan for the future? Please email us — we’re following the topic closely: letters@styleweekly.com. Thanks.
As a recent transplant to Richmond I am trying to figure out the attitude or stigma associated with Shockoe Bottom. A guy at one of the bars there told me that it could be a rough area. Yes I’ve seen the vid and read the reports. I thought for sure, any place can be rough, but I use to run around in the Fishtown and Kensington neighborhoods of Philadelphia, They make the Bottom look pretty up-scale and inviting.
As for the left side of the city, Carytownfanmuseamia, well I have fun in that area too but it all seems rather temporary and collegiate. Shockoe Bottom is the place where people have decided to stay. It has some of the fanciest restaurants around, and everything from the worlds’ most expensive furniture store, to a five and dime. I see constant rehabbing and new construction, whites-blacks-dogs-cats, the farmers market needs to step it up, but it’ll happen. I haven’t tried Gutenberg yet, but I will. I’ve only been here a few months. Consider me a Bottom Dweller! Good luck Jen.
Great article Jen! Nice to finally see your side of the story represented in a fair manner. Thanks to Jason for giving Jen and Cafe Gutenberg the forum to express themselves.
Personally, Gutenberg is my favorite restaurant in Richmond, and I will follow her anywhere she cooks in this city!
I just moved to Richmond and my husband and I moved into a loft right over the bridge in Manchester. To be honest, I had no idea there was any sort of ill feelings at all about Shockhoe Bottom. This is news to me and when my husband and I walk there for dinner from time to time, never once have I ever thought about safety or not being a patron of these restaurants due to political reasons. Maybe I haven’t lived here long enough to become jaded by it. But, I don’t think I ever will be. The whole thing just sounds ridiculous that people have a stigma at all about Shockoe. I would much rather patron, live near or in Shockoe, than in Short Pump any day.
That was an inspiring and heart-wrenching article. I feel for Jen. We love our neighborhood too and work hard to make everyone in Richmond love it. It’s a constant struggle, but I think we are winning the war. Make the best food you can, deliver over and above service, and sweep your sidewalk four times a day – haha
Jen, I know you will find your space and always your passion.
Mark and I were saddened to hear that Cafe Gutenberg is for sale – we wish you luck at finding the perfect buyer — at the same time we are excited for you to start fresh with all you’ve learned. It was a bright spot for me and I thought it was great – a little oasis that I could go when I needed a break from our own local market’s ups and downs esp with the grimness of this past winter’s week to week economy. I had no complaints except that I wish I could have gone there more often! Please know that all things happen for a reason and we are sure that something really great is going to happen for you now. Keep us posted on your new developments, and best of luck to you.
Beautifully written, well put. I live in the fan and every time I have out-of-town guests, I bring them to brunch at Cafe Gutenberg. I’m thrilled to follow you on the next step of your journey.
PS: I’ve always adored your decor. It always looked just right.
Jen, you and Garrett put your hearts and souls, as well as blood, sweats, tears and tons of talents at the Gute and it shows! I love your food, and I love the comfy, unpretentious “shabby” decor. You can’t please everyone, but you definitely please a LOT of Richmond. The right successor will come along, I hope sooner than later, so you can move forward. Thanks for your gift of Cafe Gutenberg, it will be sorely missed. Best wishes on your future endeavor!
Wow…thank you all so much for the support and encouragement. Cant tell you how much this kind of cameraderie means. Many of you have businesses, hobbies and passions that we admire and needless to say the support is mutual. What an awesome thing we have going here in Richmond… cant wait to keep kickin butt together!
Hear, hear! Thank you Jen for articulating so well what it means to be a restaurateur in Richmond and in the Bottom. I wish you the best!
So well put, Jen. Seriously, heartfelt– both sharing your personal thoughts and an educated position on the neighborhood and its struggles.
Went downtown for dinner at Gutenberg last night to find it was closed for good, apparently. It was one of my favorite places. That view, the energy, the AMAZING vegetarian food, the affordable wine. I’m sad you all will be leaving it but look forward to finding your food and drink and company someplace else soon.
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