What exactly qualifies a restaurant as “the best” in Richmond? I’ve been over this topic before, but it seems that it’s being addressed again by the year-end round-ups in Richmond’s print publications. And they’re mostly coming up with the same answer: The best restaurants are those places most of us can’t afford. Or, when we do afford them, it’s a splurge - “aspirational spending” that lets us pretend that we’ve moved up in the socio-economic hierarchy.
As an avid reader of these lists of superlatives, I’m generally looking for some updated insights about what our city has to offer, a representation of our eclectic culture. Unfortunately, if it isn’t exactly the same restaurants on these lists, they tend to focus on the $20-40 entree eateries that attract the upper tax bracket diners. It’s like the Academy Awards of overpriced eating in every printed food feature. I don’t think Richmond wants restaurants in Oscar contention at every meal. A low-budget Sundance Festival jury winner often hits the spot, with leftovers for lunch the next day. Or better yet, a meta-ranking that includes input from everyday eaters as well as alleged experts. Tell us what Richmond is crazy about and what we might be missing if we’re not adventurous enough.
In a small city, it’s not surprising that you have to cater to the big fish in order to survive. However, I don’t think the masses of would-be readers are served by accolades ad nauseam for those places they won’t be visiting but a few times a year. When restaurant recommendations serve little if any utility to the mainstream, publishers risk irrelevance. Maybe it’s that those high-dollar restaurants are the ones that print publications are most interested in cultivating as advertisers.
In the case of Richmond, it seems our food reviewers are riding their high-stepping steeds at a full gallop into obsolescence. The RTD published a list of “best new restaurants” and I couldn’t find any on the list that wouldn’t go in my special occasion category. Even if the place was casual, they’re menu was so fashionable as to mandate the bourgeois prices of pretentious products. It’s food, people! Make the shit accessible, or it will rot.
How many restaurants closed in Richmond in 2009? Like, 30 or so? Places like Karsen’s clearly contorted themselves into a caricature of elite eating and deservedly died a quick death. And now the old-money playground, Verbena? How many places priced themselves into the stratosphere and came plummeting back down? I think the restaurant reviewers are partly to blame for cultivating a purely hypothetical market for a glut of extravagant gastronomy. There’s a recession on, in case anyone hadn’t noticed.
While Richmond is crying a tributary to the James for the fallen French first-class bistro, 1 North Belmont, I wanna go ahead and point some fingers. No, I’m not going to say that frou-frou and foie gras did Fritz in (tho it might have). I’ve had a frugal meal there on my birthday (still spent $100 w/o drinks) and of course I really dug it. But, there is a time and place for fine dining and/or fashionable food. From the looks of Richmond’s best of lists, we’re saturated with the stuff, and decent expensive eateries are going to drop off because we can’t support them all (tho our cheerleaders do try). We all know how delicious everyday food can be. It’s easy to forget if you’re reading food features right about now.
Of the list of Richmond magazine’s 25 best restaurants, I counted five that I could eat at without consulting my budget (her name is Karen). It sucks to see these lists and know that I won’t get to try many of the restaurants (and that some of them will close before I get the chance). Of those 20 steep places, some are terribly overhyped, delivering outrageously tiny portions, or the atmosphere just feels plain snobby. Others feature an odd special or prix fixe meal that might draw me in, but those items are exceptions to the business model of those restaurants. Even some of the cheaper places have climbing prices or too much demand to make eating there very feasible.
Why does food writing have to be the domain of gourmands and Iron Chef groupies? I might be either or both of those people from time to time, but that’s between meals of rice and beans and ramen creations, coupon cutting and pursuing promotional offers to the ends of the city proper. Maybe professional food reviewing skews your perspective since the tab is footed by the publication. When your boss asks where to take the office out for a meal, you aim high, right? Who can blame, em? Of course fancy food is something to crow about – good or bad. But I question Richmond food reviewers’ definition of “value” if that is indeed part of the criteria for our “best of” lists. (these statements about reviewers are not directed at any one person specifically. In fact, I like those I’ve met and worry about offending them. But, I still gotta speak up about a general trend and a net effect. )
With the rant tapering off now, I want to refer you all to a couple interesting features that can provide some alternative formats for Richmond restaurant recs:
- Richmond Good Life’s DINE section. It’s sliced and diced from many POVs.
- Genevelyn’s crystal ball for 2010 predicts some off the beaten path adventures. A little fantastical, but we can only hope.
- The Cheap Date Night feature at Richmond.com has some good tips, but needs updating (some long since closed places on there) and the special offers could be dug from a bit deeper. Nonetheless, this is a good road map for dining out.
- Use the tools at EatingRichmond.com. Food bloggers are far from perfect, but their collected experiences can help you. You can search all of the Richmond food blogs for a mention about anywhere you’re thinking of going. Eventually, we’ll have prominent restaurant blog entries collected for easier accesss. The Urban Spoon and Yelp social media sites listed under “inspiration” are also surprisingly good resources.
To address the inevitable question to result from this post “So, what is on YOUR “best of” list, Mr. Smartypants?” That’s hard to say, since my child has been a real obstacle to dining out or even going out for any length of time. That said, here are some of the places that have made my year of 2009 extra tasty:
- Asian Cafe and Bakery and/or Catina (both at Horsepan and Broad) for $3 bahn mi sandwiches and bubble tea.
- India Pastry House at Parham and Broad, especially for their lunch combo meals.
- Garnett’s for their array of sandwiches, soups, and desserts.
- Cafe Rustica for, like Garnett’s, doing big things for reasonable prices in a small space.
- Nate’s Taco Truck stole the show this year and pays significantly less rent than other eateries.
- Capriccio’s Pizza is serving slices of heaven for $1.85 each.
- Once Upon a Vine for making wine affordable and overwhelming me with choice.
- GlobeHopper for their exquisite coffee, snacks, wifi, and atmosphere.
- Moore Street Diner for the best egg’n'cheese on English muffin I’ve ever had.
- Habanero’s Mexican Grill on Quioccasin. Haven’t been in a while, but they’re darned good.
- Ruchee Express brings delicious Indian to the Fan and fresh naan back into my life.
- Momotaro in Carytown does a bangin lunch special and the rolls I’ve had otherwise, were also fantastic.
- La Sabrosita bakery on Midlo churns out Latin American pastries in dozens of varieties as well as savory finger foods. Tell Mario that I sent you. I don’t know what it will get you or me, but it just sounds cool to say.
- Chicken Fiesta specializes in a food I don’t eat (guess) even tho its’ super juicy and slow roasted over hot coals. For me, the yuca, tamale pie, and other sides are plenty to hold my interest.
This isn’t THE list of 2009. It’s an off the top of my head brainstorm. There’s so much more to celebrate in Richmond. Chime in with a comment to expand our concept of “the best.”
UPDATE on 1/31/10:
Be sure to read the comment thread. It’s made me really proud to play host to this discussion. I’ve been holding back a lot of my own comments, because the contributions here really speak for themselves, including the personal attacks. However, since seeing this post suggested a few times in the nomination process for the RVANews Internet Awards and Richmond Good Life’s inclusion of the people’s favorite restaurants (culled from these comments) in a democratic meta-ranking, I just really want to post some kind of epilogue to welcome the new eyeballs and to propose some take-aways that rose to the surface for me (maybe you’ll want to add your own).
First, I want to thank every paid food reviewer who came on here and spoke up. Considering the way I kinda went for their collective juggular, it’s understandable that there was some defensiveness. Hopefully, they heard the veritable outpouring here.
There is good cause for general cynicism toward food reviewers, including bloggers. We get so wrapped up in our mental pictures of perfect food and the restaurant experience, I think it’s easy to get detached from everyday eating and start to resemble the stereotype of a food snob. In that way, we only succeed at fulfilling expectations with our best-of lists, instead of conveying true insights and enlightening readers about excellence in a wider range of the culinary arts.
That said, I think there’s something bigger going on than food writers falling in line behind one another at the frou-frou food trough. Rather, Richmond seems to have a kind of bipolar behavior, flocking to the high-end and low-end (whether or not they deserve the success). Meanwhile, the accessible mid-range suffers from the catch-22 of lacking options and fanfare. It’s analogous to the American hallmark of extremes in wealth and poverty and seems to fit with the context of Richmond’s the dual realities of race/class divided population.
But, hey. We’re talking about food here. It’s something to celebrate and be thankful for. One day, we’ll have a true “people’s best restaurant list.” Until then, go with your gut and support those places that you want to see survive and thrive and represent Richmond.
PS: Is it too late for me to add Helen’s to my list of highlights form 2009? Their restaurant week food was off the hook and I hope for a date night there again some day.
I agree with you about Cafe Rustica. One of my new faves! Is Verbena closed now? I hope not because for Christmas I received a $200 gift certificate. I will be very disappointed in Verbena’s business ethics if they sold gift certificates fully knowing they would be closing their doors soon.
From Twitter:
(I’m adding twitter comments in here as they come in, reverse chrono order – new stuff at the top)
firstfridaysrva Will comment on your blog later, but basically I’m w/ you on concept that fancy place & high price seems to = great restaurant.
firstfridaysrva and I hate any business closing but I never went to those restaurants that have recently closed. Couldn’t afford to go.
thinkpowdercom Check out @RVAfoodie blog post about #rva “best of dining”. Great debate topic. I miss the days when lunch was less than $10.
@savingourway certainly agree! It’s hard to enjoy downtown RIC dining on a budget!!
@styleweekly Good post but disappointed to see Style left out. Our critics’ “Favorite 50″ offers wide gamut of price.
@thomasmcdonald Nice work!
@happydorkjc Enjoyed your blog about the year-end reviews. You should try Pad Thai, located on Meadow Bridge Rd, near 295. Kid & $ friendly.
@shedrivesajimmy imho you’re wrong on lemaire. feels snobby? when was the last time you were there? did you miss the 5.00$ items on the menu?
@Jeb_Hoge I completely agree w/ this column. My wife & I had this very conversation last night. Curious how many food reviewers are DINKs. (dual income no kids)
@impoliticeye Good post, man. I’ll post a comment when time permits.
@RichmondGL I feel like I’m your carnivore doppelganger when it comes to the whole value equation. I’ll post a comment on blog later tonight.
@danacraigrtd You know we disagree on best vs. expensive etc. but it’s a great post.
This is an enjoyable, thought provoking post.
Here’s one thought on the “best of” lists..Maybe the criterion for making those lists includes serving alcohol (wine) and offering table service, both of which drive up the expenses (and hopefully profits…) of running a restaurants, I dunno.
As much as I love cheap eats, if I can’t get a glass of wine @ dinner, it doesn’t make my own, personal list of the best Richmond has to offer.
Thank you for the link, Jason. See you on the SS.
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I want to know why you cannot get decent food in Richmond after 10pm anywhere. Especially on a Sunday. It drives me crazy. And by decent I don’t mean gourmet—just tasty. The only place I know of is Weezie’s.
Agreed! I need to get on the updating of Eat Beat: Cheap Date Nights and keep at it all year. That’s my New Year’s resolution. Look for a new on this month and it’ll stay updated!
Tried Capriccio’s recently and am IN LOVE with it. Crust could be thinner, but I’m not complaining- sauce to cheese ratio is perfect, lovely crispy italian pepperonis…..I could wax on. I’ve def. filled others in on this gem. On the flip side, tried the Ledo’s that just opened up in the near west end. One word- yuck.
I am not crying over 1 North– went there once and was not impressed with the stuffy, pretentious environment and my lord! SO overpriced! Moreso than any other place I’ve been in Richmond. This coming from a girl who will drop a couple bills on a dinner if she really wants to try a place. (Not rolling in dough here, just have priorities that revolve around food and we have no children to consider in the budget- LOL!)
Psst– I’m spreading the word, Bouchon has Tues. nite prix fixe- $50 covers 3 courses and a bottle of wine for 2. It’s value is about 3X that! Love this place & the owners.
ok.. heard (through a somewhat reliable grapevine) THAT VERBENA is not closing yet, but some changes are definitely in the works.
I’m still trying to pick the appropriate cheese for this particular whine.
I think, like many things in Richmond, that folks like what they know. And from my experience change is an ugly word.
As Richmond has grown and diversified over the years so have the options. People have to have tastes past a few hundred miles, I believe, to really begin to develop an understanding of flavors. You can’t give a kid chicken and fries their whole life and then expect them to fall in love with quinoa salad or asparagus risotto.
I find the best restaurants, at any price, are the ones where the chefs love food and love what they are doing and that the restaurant has a clear message and sticks to it. And by clear message I don’t mean an attitude they are trying to shove in your face.
I also believe that dining out does not replace cooking. I dine out for things that I don’t make well at home. Which is one reason I don’t dine out often.
I’ve enjoyed a couple of good meals at Julep. They are consistent in their message as to the food they serve and the service that goes with it. I pay for that when I want it.
I liked Patina better years ago when they really reached out with food ideas. I feel like the have scaled themselves back to meet more simple tastes.
Buckhead – the food was not that impressive and the stiff attitude just made the whole thing worse. When my husband wants a steak and stiff drinks we head to the North Pole.
CanCan – well I am not a 40yo divorcee so that should say enough. I say get a cookbook by Jacques Pepin, Bourdain or Julia Child and buy the ingredients, some great wine and tackle your favorite items with your best friend/partner. You’ll have more fun and probably get better results.
CousCous was a nice surprise. Even better I went with a really diverse crowd so ordering was adventurous and fun.
I have a bunch of kids, 5 to be exact, and when we eat out we eat at Full Kee, Thai Diner and Malabar. I have found them family friendly and have items I don’t make at home. And because I have been lucky enough to travel, if I ask for a specific dish not on their menu they are eager to make it for
me.
I have NEVER been able to keep up with the constant opening/closing of restaurants and being a bit cynical I often avoid the places people rave about.
Great post. Chicken Fiesta is awesome. Some others I thought of La Milpa on Hull Street, Chiaocca’s Downstairs, Croakers Spot (can’t wait to try the new Manchester location), and Caliente. In this cold weather I miss Zuppa’s.
Good call by Kate on Cous-Cous.
Great post! I think restaurants would not include taco trucks, fastfood bakeries etc. I think more places like Cafe Rustica, good price for great food should have been considered more. That said, regarding some of your suggestions, I’ve had stale bread with my Banh Mi at Asian Bakery, but for $3.00 it’s hard to complain. We prefer a chain like Pizza Fusion for pizza, tried Capriccio’s pizza but hubby said their cheese taste like velveeta – might be his taste buds but that’s why we’re not interested in going back. Yes! for Chicken fiesta, love that place.
Now, for the 25 restaurants – went to Balliceaux last Saturday, not impressed. Our bourride was good but the mussels, shrimps and scallops were overcooked bordering on rubbery. Incredibly excited about Bouchon, we had dinner there tonight and everything was great except my creme brulee which was grainy. We overheard another diner tell the owner that it was out-of-this world though, so I’m wondering if I am just too picky about dessert.
I agree with the selection of Umi, Cafe Rustica, Cancan,Sensi, Acacia and Full Kee. Wonder why DD33, Coast, Edo’s Squid is on there. Agree with Kate above that Patina Grill was good years ago. Hubby and I prefer Dalat to Mekong, personally I like going to Pho So 1. No opinion much about the rest because either I’ve not gone there or had a passable meal.
It has always been a mystery why restaurants are so much more reasonably priced in NYC/Brooklyn. Even relatively fancy ones. The only place I’ve been to eat recently is Pho So 1, though looking forward to that prix fixe at Bouchon.
Genevelyn and Veron: Great points about what qualifies as a restaurant for best-of list-making purposes. For me, if a greasy spoon hole-in-the-wall is doing something really significant, then it’s as praise-worthy as the rarefied service that brings out big white plates with a dainty morsel that looks like a child’s no-thank you helping. If I have to wait for wine til I get home, or smuggle in some jungle juice in my canteen, so be it.
To be honest, I didn’t write this blog entry to post competing lists. I never really wanted to make a best restaurant list. It’s an unenviable task, deciding who’s in and out, hurting people’s feelings, and then dealing with criticism (like mine). Yuck. My list isn’t meant to serve as a direct comparison to anything you see in Style Weekly or the RTD or Richmond Mag. I’m just floating ideas about the foods and flavors that shaped my year, given my budget and time constraints. They aren’t all first place pigs at the state fair, but they make great pets. I think a lot of you reading this could make similar lists that would paint a much different (and more relevant) picture of Richmond than your average media outlet’s best-of list.
Also, it’s kinda slim pickins. Richmond is arguably lacking in cheap to moderately priced restaurants of real significance. Yes, we have some that everyone can list, but not enough to balance out those best of lists. So, which came first? Have our reviewers’ adoration of haut cuisine and inflated price-points shaped Richmonders tastes and dining habits, creating an artificial sense that we need and can support an endless supply of expensive eateries? Or, has the restaurant fanfare that has given Richmond a real concentration of places to eat naturally inspired restauranteurs to compete by placing a high premium on every plate?
Either way, the situation is out of step with our economic climate, as evidenced by the restaurant closings spreading like swine flu. In fact, I think the idolization of the upper crust in Richmond has created culinary bantustans for those of us not interested in paying an arm and a leg for the prospect of a an exciting meal. Elitism is in the water here, but it’s too bad that it affects something so basic and common as the food we eat.
Kate: Great soliloquy. Everyone has a personal approach to eating in or out. I have a coupon for Cous Cous and need to follow your suggestion on that and a trip to Malabar.
Belinda: The prix fixe at Bouchon is my top priority next time we get a sitter on a Tuesday. Try the steak and cheese sub at Capriccio’s. I hear it rates high for Richmond standards. Also, the single plain slice of cheese pizza. It couldn’t be lighter. Whole pies with toppings can vary.
Richrd: Wished I lived nearer to La Milpa. Is the veggie or tuna sandwich at Chiocca’s worth eating?
(1) Here’s my mild gripe…Richmond Mag, Richmond.com, Style and Times Dispatch (the BIG 4) tend to be allergic to this value priced/non-chain genre. It’s almost as if $10 minimum entree is a criteria to get a review. The fact that Capriccio’s (as far as I know) hasn’t been reviewed is borderline criminal. 2 slices/soda for under $5 is the best satisfaction to dollar ratio out there.
(2) I get the traditional definition of “BEST”. The best will be using the be$t ingredients w CIA training/years of apprenticeship/natural talent, usually in a nice setting (ambiance is like a condiment). That all costs money. If the money is in the dish (and wine glass), so be it. If someone is using $15 of raw ingredient, it better “BEST” the place that uses $4 worth of ingredient.
(3) Love this list (adding to meta-list…I guess it’s the BIG 5 now)
This is a very thought provoking post. After piercing the snark, I think I get your point that not enough attention/emphasis is given to those restaurants that are doing it right at the lower to medium quintiles of dining world. Now I should note here that I haven’t read the new Richmond Mag and haven’t done enough trolling to see what places made the list. All I am aware of are the ones named here. So with all that said, I have a very ovservations.
1) I think that Dana Craig does a pretty good job of highlighting all kinds of places. While I may not agree with all of her opinions and some of the places make me go “hunh?”, she seems to be reviewing a whole range of establishments.
2) There are some very good places in town doing interesting things with food at moderate prices that have gotten some good press; Mekong, Black Sheep and Rustica come to mind immediately.
3) You deride upper scale restaurants for their prices and, to your credit, go one to note that some have specials or prix fixe, but then instantly brush that fact aside as not being the main focus of the establishment. Why not celebrate or congratulate those places for making interesting food available for the equivalent of 2 nights out at the movies?
4) Part of the issue is how a person defines value. Is it an inexpensive meal done well consistently? Is is just cheap food? Is it creative dishes at a moderate price? I think the answer is personal, but could be any or all of the above.
5) As for why the lists are characterized by more expensive restaurants I can only speculate it is because reviewers want to be surprised and challenged and excited and maybe those opportunities are not in a chicken taco or a turkey rueben or gourmet pizza no matter how well done. Building on my hypothesis, surprising and challenging foods usually come trained chefs and, just like anyone else with specialized training, their services cost a little more money. I think its great that these kinds of chefs are trying to make a go of it here in Richmond as it helps make town a more dynamic place.
6) As has been alluded to here, these lists are made to be dissected, criticized, parsed and/or praised. And hopefully forums like this and other blogs help bring to light the restaurants left off THE list, but are worthy of note nonetheless.
Personally, I love Crif Dog on St. James in NYC for their bacon wrapped hot dogs with various creative toppings. I’m not sure that it belongs on any best restaurant lists.
Don’t forget about Tastebud’s. I think they are doing great things and they are moderately priced.
I don’t have a problem with the high end restaurants being labelled the best in Richmond. I don’t have a problem with them being reviewed. For all the accolades in the media for the high end restaurant, there are tweets, blog posts, and chowhound messages to talk about the cheap eats.
The reality is that there is a need for a good night out once in a while and it makes sense to help readers make that decision. I’m glad i have food snobs like Bookstore Piet and WhineMeDineMe to keep me from suckering my money away at places like Rowlands. I’m glad to see Dana Craig’s enthusiasm over the next best thing.
And give up the Capriccio’s thing. It’s a fine slice of pizza and it’s reasonable. Same with the taco truck. Both are good food and good prices, but they aren’t restaurants worth comparing in the same breath as some of the high end restaurants.
I think Bookstore Piet told me once that the expanse of restaurants in the Richmond area can be attributed to the success and expansion of Capital 1 in the 90’s and early 00’s. They recruited some of the best and brightest from all over the country. Combine that with strong incomes, and you have a stronger market for high end food. The decline of Capital 1 over the past 5 years can’t be overlooked. You still have a lot of those people in town. They still appreciate the same food. There just may not be the same amount disposable income that they once had. All that to say, I don’t think media is to blame for the false reality. I think there are a multitude of reasons with the market correction being at the forefront.
I really have to defend my publication here.
Advertising has absolutely nothing, nothing, nothing to do with any of these lists. AT ALL. An advertiser came in once to complain about not being included in a story a while back and the publisher told him that that side of the business had nothing to do with editorial. End of story. Period. Restaurants call all the publications to complain when they don’t get noticed and the editors shut them down just a firmly. Journalists really take ethics seriously, Jason, they really do.
Our lives in the media (and blogs are part of the media too) would be so easy if we just dumped our ethics and gave in to advertisers but the fact of the matter is that we care–care so much–about what we write about around here. We are truly doing it for love because, trust me, there are no piles of gold hidden under a writer’s desk.
I was in the room when we decided on these restaurants and let me tell, the deliberation was long and contentious. We don’t all agree with each other. Sometimes we disagree violently. Consensus is the method to the madness.
Mekong, Aziza, Rustica, Black Sheep, Mama ‘Zu, Full Kee, even Balliceaux and Acacia’s prix fixe (Dale Reitzer told me that he’s keeping costs down and offering the prix fixe to get a different crowd in there from the old Acacia–it IS his business model)——those places are and can be reasonable.
We talked for a long time about value. Value to us meant the food was worth the price of the check, not just a meal that’s a deal. I’ll fork out the bucks for Millie’s because I know I’ll be paying for the skill and imagination of the chef, as well as the ingredients.
And speaking of full spectrum, also please remember the following issues of Richmond Magazine: November 2009–Best Burger; July 2009–Best BBQ; May 2009–50 Fantastic Food Finds; December 2008–Comfort Foods; July 2009–Cheap Eats. We try year to year as well.
This discussion needs a soundrack with a good beat (and appropriate lyrics if you replace “sleep” with “eat”).
Pulp – Common People from harrypedro on Vimeo.
One more thing: Food cost also includes the salary of the chef. Are you saying that chefs should be paid less? Even one who paid for CIA training? I love Chicken Fiesta but should that chef be paid the same as Acacia’s? Then those prices would go up. Or should we lower the salary of Acacia’s chef so the prices go down?
I’ve said it elsewhere before, but what I miss in Richmond is what I had in New York — good, reasonably-priced neighborhood restaurants. By reasonably priced, I mean restaurants where the menu stays well below the $20 mark for an entree, and where two people can eat well and have some wine for fifty bucks. Of course, we have Rustica, Black Sheep, Cous Cous and Ed Vasaio’s joints (as long as you stick to the pastas). But beyond that, most budget-friendly neighborhood dining comes in the shape of Giavos joints, Strawberry St. Cafe, cloned Thai restaurants, and a slew of other mediocre copycat options.
I’m with Kate on my reasons for eating out. I have a daughter, and I’m a single dad. If I eat out, I want something that the kid will enjoy — without being another plate of chicken fingers and fries — and that I will enjoy because I might not make it at home. If I want a real “experience,” I’ll be happy to go to Acacia or any of a number of other places that have been mentioned on these lists, but those nights are few and far between.
Back to Jason’s original point, though, I have no problem with the lists and the reviews. It’s fun to read them and fun to aspire to the night when I can check out some new joint that has made the list. I just want the restaurant scene to skew toward quality that’s within reach every night rather than just on special occasions.
Because we chatted briefly about this subject on Twitter, I thought I’d chime in. Let me first say, good post…although I completely disagree with you.
Here’s why. As a food critic (and a normal human being who is affected by the recession just like everyone else), I spend the majority of my dining out at many of the places I think you frequent as well — Plaza Mexico, Cafe Rustica, Mamma ‘Zu, Vietnam 1, Hill Cafe, Garnett’s Cafe, Momotaro, 821 Cafe, Mojo’s…I could go on.
However, when I am writing a “best of” list (and my list was based purely on restaurants that opened in the past year), I’m thinking about what stood out most during my culinary travels. As GP said above, “reviewers want to be surprised and challenged and excited and maybe those opportunities are not in a chicken taco or a turkey rueben or gourmet pizza no matter how well done.” It’s true.
More often than not, “standing out” comes from quality, and sometimes quality can be expensive. A well-trained chef, certain ingredients, even certain kitchen equipment do not come cheap, and as a lover of food, I respect that. Just like with any job, you get a raise based on experience. The more experience you have, the more you make. The more you make, the more it costs to employ you…blah blah blah. It’s not just food. It’s experience and talent.
I don’t know of many people who watch the Oscars or whatever award show looking for “Best Movie Made For Under $5,000″ because there are other awards for movies with such budgets — Sundance, Spirit Awards, etc. They watch for the most talented actors, the most talented directors, etc.
You said, “It’s like the Academy Awards of overpriced eating in every printed food feature.”
And I do think of my “best of” list each year as the Academy Awards (no matter how high-brow that analogy is)…but I’m going to stop that comparison at “of overpriced eating.”
I think you’re using “overpriced” and “expensive” interchangeably. They aren’t. “Overpriced” is a subjective adjective, whereas “expensive” isn’t. It’s all about quality. A $100 meal at 1 North Belmont was expensive to me, but it was by no means overpriced because of the talent behind the plate placed in front of me. I respect talent and I’m willing to pay for it.
Same goes for the $10 scallop-crab cakes at Cafe Rustica that are filling enough for a meal. There’s talent behind the creation of that dish, and that’s why I called Cafe Rustica one of the best restaurant of last year. Same for Black Sheep. Same for Cafe Gutenberg this year. Talent all around regardless of price.
I also agree with Genevelyn. Part of my “criteria” for most restaurants I review is table service, wine list (no matter how cheap or expensive), etc. She’s right. Those do drive up costs, and hence, my “best of” list is chosen from those.
But that’s why I like the diversity of Richmond’s food writers, both in the media and on blogs. The range of reviewing and noting of new places is so diverse. You, for example, have opened my eyes to some new “cheap eats,” while I hope I’ve opened other’s eyes to trying a new restaurant they may never have heard of or perhaps showing someone a new place to splurge on the fare of a culinary talent.
I like your post and the commentary it’s provoked, however I think you saying, “I think the restaurant reviewers are partly to blame for cultivating a purely hypothetical market for a glut of extravagant gastronomy” is a little outlandish. Trained chefs who put their heart and soul into their food deserve praise. I don’t think we reviewers are to blame for praising talent and hard work. People have their own minds and opinions and take reviewers’ words as they will. I’m one opinion. I don’t expect people to take my words as “truth.”
Thanks for letting me ramble and provoking such differing opinions.
Jason doesn’t really care about the food. For these rants you just as easily sub in any other hobby that people might feel passionate about. He just likes to stir the shit and take up the mantle of the little guy so he can feel better about himself being solidly middle class. I mean who else would review a restaurant by walking by and glancing at the menu instead of actually eating at the place like he did with the republic (I’ve actually eaten there it’s not bad nor really outstanding but it’s way too soon to form a real opinion of the food or the direction – will it be a bar or and eatery? probably a bar). To constantly bash Can-Can, which he goes to frequently, or Lemaire, where he hasn’t, smacks of dishonesty and his own special brand of elitism.
The goal of Richmond Magazine’s best list was the best 25 restaurants. The restaurants that had the whole package. Sure, Chicken Fiesta serves good food but eating there has all the charm of a Subway and I get the same level of service at McDonald’s. A taco cart is a taco cart. If the list had been street food or quick lunches then there it belongs. Up against Rustica or Black Sheep? No. Even one of my favs didn’t make the list – 8 1/2. Why, it’s a take-away not a full service restaurant. If Jason had taken the time to read all the pieces he might have noticed favourite dishes from a whole array of restaurants and price ranges sprinkled throughout. There are a ton of places that do some things real well, that have a dish that might make you drive out of the way to have, but don’t quite measure up to the top.
Brandon was correct in people felt passionate about some choices and a few places that might have made other lists were cut over quite a bit of debate. Others had only one champion and made the list against the odds. I was the only one to mention Avalon as deserving to be included and Brandon was sent off to see if I had any credibility. Fortunately for me, and Avalon, she had a great meal. Given the guidelines we were working with to create the list I doubt it would have been any different had you been in the room.
I did like a couple things about this post. You didn’t mention your Piccolo post, a good post but I think you refer to it on a monthly basis, and you didn’t again bash the long defunct Cabo’s.
I want nothing to do with that last comment. Piet and I have been friendly enough in the past to make me think that his mis characterization is personally motivated. Any response from me would derail what has been a pretty substantive conversation. I suggest ignoring it (unless you enjoyed it).
Regarding affordability, I was negligent in mentioning that Bouchon also has a 3 course Pre-Fixe dinner, between 5-6 PM, for only twenty dollars — every night!!
Belinda: I checked with Bouchon (via Facebook) and both of their prix-fixe deals have vegetarian/pescatarian options. Very exciting. I have a blog entry about pri-fixe meals in Richmond that’s been unfinished for months. I hope that a visit to Bouchon will light a fire under me to finish it one of these days. As Brandon points out, Acacia is surprisingly accessible, in large part thanks to their prix fixe that other restaurants have to measure up to. I sang their praises here in an Eating Richmond feature about my favorite date night place (not my favorite genre of restaurant, but they have their place).
shedrivesajimmy: I went to Lemaire for snacks/drinks with coworkers back in November. Maybe I’m just too committed to unsophistication, but the atmosphere/crowd felt too stuffy, snooty even. That said, I’m really impressed with the food that I’ve tasted and even more so with the range of creative dishes that I’ve read about. It sounds like the stuff in the fancy cookbooks that I own, but am intimidated about opening. I’m sure their chef deserves all the praise he’s getting.
Rather than try to respond to all of the divergent perspectives or points of contention, I’d rather reiterate the theme from this blog entry as I think it’s gotten some traction: Obviously it’s a publication’s prerogative to decide what restaurants are “the best” and the criteria they want to use. Everyone has different tastes. They can decide who’s palates will make up their panel and who their target market is. It’s a free market. I just don’t understand why, in this economic downturn, publications choose to parade inaccessible dining options in front of a public that probably sees them as out of reach. Why trumpet “once in a while” restaurants from every media outlet all of the time? Yes, I’m exaggerating, but not by that much. I do think some of the regularly featured places are deserving (while others are not) and I do think we have more high end restaurants than Richmond’s socio-economic demographic needs or can support (see the recent restaurant closings, to say the least). To me, it’s an obvious disconnect and the preliminary response echoed my general sentiments. If we were intentional about praising excellence at every price level, the industry might take a hint and more “common people” might tune in. Didn’t yall like the song? Hopefully, music will tame any savage beasts about to pounce. Either way, please continue.
I’ll come at this from a different starting point. My foundation changes my perspective, so might as well get it out so everything is on the table.
1.) I have severe food allergies and I prefer not having to use my epipen.
2.) I have lost 60% of my earnings and simply cannot afford to eat out.
3.) I love to cook, and with the two above combined, I’m getting pretty good at it, using cheaper and unusual cuts of meat that I can afford.
4.) I live in Short Pump and work nights.
Therefore, I have a few reasons where I simply do not go to restaurants due to immune system, money, time, and location. Yes, I know its cliched about people in the West End not venturing forth into the city, and I’m solidly cliched. Its too much work, especially if there’s a Whole Foods next door.
So with full disclosure out of the way, I’ll proceed.
The argument on the face of it was the use of “Best” lists and do they adequately represent what is the “Best”? I feel Dana did a good job of explaining her position that “best” refers to artistically challenging and motivating food soley based on the dining experience itself. I don’t see Jason is really arguing that. I feel Jason’s is really arguing something different.
If I am understanding you correctly Jason, you are saying that yeah sure, those various restaurants may be good, and even amazing, but are they realistic? On the face of a “normal” person’s yearly culinary landscape, do they ultimately represent how we live and how we eat? He feels that they do not, so if that is the case, how do you call them the best?
So therefore, its two arguments going on with the language of one, no wonder the confusion!
There are several issues here in the Richmond food scene, ultimately resting on economics. There is a dearth of reasonably priced food. It is art in itself to make something of dubious quality into something amazing. This is the foundation of the great food cultures, making something largely inedible into something memorable. Richmond restaurants outside of the ethnic ones (I’m talking to you La Milpa, Full Kee, Pho 79, love you!) do not do a generally good job of providing that middle tier. In that we are all broke, or all busy working trying not to be broke, or exhausted from all the work not trying to be broke, how many restaurants really do a good job of providing that emotional and financial need?
In better times, those places that put out interesting and innovative (and yes, expensive) food do well. But are the emotional and realistic needs of the populace being met according to what is real for many _right now_?
Why do we eat where we do? Why do we eat what we eat? The uppercrust restaurants are dying because they are not meeting the needs of the populace, not because they don’t put out great food. They are putting out fabulous art, for sure, and that is valuable in itself. But these are strange times and the need and expression of art in all forms is being redefined.
The general demographics are also changing. Where I live in the West End, its Little India and I find that fabulous. The restaurants that motivate me (listed above) seem to do well all the time. Therefore, who we are also determines our needs. Let’s be real, when people went to Verbena or Balliceaux, how many patrons are not white? I’m truly not trying to make this a race thing, its just a question about values being different and that the term “best” will change depending on the lense.
So perhaps the argument really is “why is ‘Best’ an appropriate descriptive?” How about “Places we really liked this year.” Too many words to go on a magazine? Probably.
And finally:
“Jason doesn’t really care about the food. For these rants you just as easily sub in any other hobby that people might feel passionate about. He just likes to stir the shit and take up the mantle of the little guy so he can feel better about himself being solidly middle class.”
This I find hilarious, and I’m talking to you directly Jason. You do have a bent for being inflammatory and then being surprised when people flame back. I love that about you, truly. I do the same.
To everyone else, I can say from personal experience that Jason does care about the food. He wants to be delighted, he wants to be surprised, he wants to feel satisfaction. He also really really really cares about his wallet. Jason seems to have this internal compass pointing him away from mainstream and/or elitism and is suspicious of large groups of people finding any one thing really awesome (MMA aside.) This is another trait I share with him, as I’m downright ornery to anything that is popular except my Ipod Touch. This may or may not be a character flaw. This may or may not be another form of elitism. I’ve seen him champion the smaller places time and time again, I’ve seen him really care about equity and diversity.
Now for Piet to make a wholesale character attack is unwarranted and frankly classless. I hope you enjoyed looking like a tool. In your response you did not demonstrate, in my mind, a cogent understanding of the argument(s). If you want to show up Jason, feel free to do so, but do it with a nuanced understanding of what’s going on, not behaving in the same exact way you are accusing of Jason of behaving.
Here’s my mild gripe…Richmond Mag, Richmond.com, Style and Times Dispatch (the BIG 4) tend to be allergic to this value priced/non-chain genre. It’s almost as if $10 minimum entree is a criteria to get a review. The fact that Capriccio’s (as far as I know) hasn’t been reviewed is borderline criminal.
Executive editor at Richmond magazine here, just wanted to point out that we gave Capriccio a rave review in December, our January issue (the one with the “Best Restaurants” story cited here) contains a favorable review of Chicken Fiesta, in November we reviewed Feathernesters, in October we reviewed Verde, I could go on and on … and in defense of my local-media fellows, I know that they’ve reviewed and highlighted many similarly priced spots.
I’m enjoying following the discussion of recent “Best Restaurants” lists — such debates are part of the fun of these kind of things — but it needs to be pointed out that over the course of a year’s worth of food and dining coverage, we do far more than “trumpet ‘once in a while’ restaurants … all of the time.”
i’m so not a food critic. ask @shedrivesajimmy who had to explain to me what the difference between sushi and sashimi is. but i get this post on a personal level. with two kids and a rapidly diminishing disposable income pot, i end up reading most of the reviews with drool coming out of my mouth, knowing i will not end up eating there unless i win the lottery or get a sugar daddy. the only reason i got to try water grill is that a friend of mine treated me.
yes, there are food lists of cheap eats etc. but they are few and far between and hard for me to access, as i don’t have a ton of time between owning a business and chasing kids and heating up chicken nuggets to prowl around the internet. urban spoon’s iphone app has been relatively helpful.
i have always thought of food reviewers as inherently snobby – not in a bad way, but there are a few subjects of which i know a lot about, and i’m a bit snobby myself. it’s never surprised me that most reviewers are reviewing equally “exclusive” places.
that being said, a close friend is an executive chef. his food is amazing, he studied in italy, and is truly passionate about his work. when i want to go out for an amazing food experience, i go wherever he is working. he is worth the money. those who commented about how chefs should be paid have a good point. if you want to eat that kind of cuisine, you need to be willing to pay for it.
some of those closing restaurants deserved to close, IMHO. but as a small business owner myself, i never like to see it. i will continue, with my meager cash, to visit locally owned, non-chain restaurants i can afford. and unfortunately that means not the ones regularly reviewed, but my favorite little places to go. should i be embarrassed to admit i like mama cucina? even worse, nacho mama’s (so much better now that it’s smoke free?). brunch at kitchen 64? my tastes are definitely not developed, but i love food. i just can’t afford most of the places i’m told to eat.
@Kelly – I don’t mind looking like a tool I do it all the time. Your right, Jason does like good food but he has told me on numerous occasions that he writes in a specific way to evoke an emotional debate on issues – writing to inflame not to share genuine reviews of food. It’s this schtick and his need to bash upper scale restaurants as some sort of clique of robber barons while frequenting them himself and singing their praises in private that I find tiresome and dishonest to his readers. Knowing him I have never been sure if he is truly interested in the food and the debate or is just obsessively checking the stats of his blog and the number of comments he can generate.
I’m still wondering why Pescados did not make the list and Coast did. I haven’t been to Pescados in a year or so (other side of town) but I enjoyed my flash-fried red snapper there a whole lot more than I did my shrimp and grits at Coast, which was sadly ordinary. I think Andy Howell needs to hold a seminar on how to do amazing food at a reasonable prices and how a small cozy restaurant is really better than a huge space with too many seats to fill.
The attempt to upscale every kind of peasant dish from shrimp and grits to crab cakes is driving the cost of dining up. If these places forgo the glitz and glamour of fine dining and concentrate on the flavor of the food, the prices will come down. More middle income folks will visit these places realizing that food prepared by a neighborhood restaurant with an ace chef is infinitely better than these box chain restaurants that have been sprouting up in the West End like mushrooms. Yes, I’m a West End girl and I pray everyday for more local neighborhood-type restaurants to open here in Short Pump.
That said, I had no problem paying $16 for a plate of foie gras at Bouchon because it was damn good and I was paying for the expertise of preparation. But, I do have a problem with places with all the frou frou in place where I am served mediocre food and hubby and I walk away $130 poorer – now that sucks and some of these restaurants are on that 25 best list.
What I’m really saying is, if you charge outlandishly for dinner, you better hope your food can cash it.
What we really need are more authentic (yes I use that word) cuisine like Full Kee. Let’s have a real Japanese restaurant, for example. I hear Wasabi in Midlothian is where most of the Japanese expats go to. I have been there only once and I liked it.
I’m also excited about the Korean Garden that genevelyn mentioned.
Regarding service, I don’t care if the waiter is brusque as long as I get my drinks and food in a reasonable amount of time so I rarely judge how great a restaurant is based on the attitude of the waiter. It’s only in America anyway where we expect the waitstaff to pander to our every need.
Oh, Fusion Cuisine and Upscale South … so last decade.
The amount of passion dedicated to these comments proves that all of us, even the ones claiming that their aren’t enough low price options, are rich beyond belief.
Fact is that all these posters are so blessed that they they can eat out as often as they like and enjoy Richmond’s many fine establishments, non chain and chain alike, while many in our culture struggle to put quality meals on their family’s tables every night.
Complain all you want. But Jesus Christ, recognize how frickin’ snotty you sound to the rest of the world. And yes, that means all of you.
I completely understand where this post is coming from. I don’t understand Richmond’s fascination with expensive restaurants. Every other city I’ve lived in there was this huge list of places making decent food, with good beer/wine, at affordable prices. Black sheep, Cous Cous and Ipanema are the only places I can think of right now that are affordable and still offer a fun atmosphere. Since moving back hometo Richmond, the question has always been where should we eat? There just seems to be a lack of reasonably priced, good, fun restaurants.
I’ve debated on responding to this as I am (a) a blogger and (b) one who goes to above average priced restaurants and goes several times a week and therefore is the enemy (hehehe). In the case of Bottega, they closed due to lease issues and also because their food STUNK. I get tired of the economy being blammed for the close of every business when the reality is that most of the restaurants that are closing are due to management/food/service/execution issues, and the economy becomes a good scapegoat. There are 6 restaurants we frequent 90% of the time we go out at various ends of the spectrum (Flemings, Mediterraneo, Azzurro, Millie’s, Edo’s and Chicken Fiesta)because they provide good food, good service, and an overall good experience.
@BookstorePiet- So what if it is his shtick? I think it personally provides a good read and better conversation. Maybe I am too good of friends with RVAFoodie to be objective, but his writing is fairly transparent. I don’t think there is anything his trying to hide. He seems comfortable living in that tension.
@TedTruth- In a global perspective, you are correct. This is all meaningless when most of the world is living on $20 a week or whatever absurd number that is. That being said, it is not without value. Healthy debate is good for building community (even if it is online). And for what it’s worth, many of the people on this blog try to make difference in whatever way possible.
nice post, guard.
Ted– Mirror. I mean this is a FOOD blog after all.
Chad– These comments are all your magazine’s fault, btw.
I retract Richmond Magazine from my “minor gripe” list (guess I need to read the print version more!). However, in general, mentioning a “cheap eat” in a blurb column is not the same as a full fledged (dual visit)/apps to dessert/clinical trial-level review.
I don’t know if the problem with food lists in Richmond is always that the places are expensive, I think the problem is the choices are always obvious.
While I haven’t gone to Lemaire, I have looked over their menu a lot and find their prices reasonable. Their “farm to table” thing that Balliceaux also does is very in right now (thanks to Dan Barber and a slew of other folks) and it was right to reward that in a list.
I am someone who travels looking for good pizza (try Rivermont Pizza if you’re ever in Lynchburg. TRUST.), & I haven’t found a sit down place I like for pizza (this includes atmosphere, beer selection, etc) much in Richmond besides Tarrant’s. I understand frustration with Richmond’s food selections but at least there are A LOT of places to go. Have you been to Lynchburg? Besides Rivermont and a few other spots, it’s all chains and fried things. There seem to be a few holes, but Richmond is slow with everything. Slow to pick up on the farm-to-table model, slow to get Neapolitan pizza (coming soon I hear), slow to get decent venues for bands to play in.
Mel, you are so right about the ‘burg (went to school there)– still have much love and loyalty for my Cav (Cavalier) burger w/fries(seasoned salt, of course!) and ranch. Not to mention a cheesy western from the T-room!
Will have to try Rivermont next time I’m in town visiting friends.
……….I am going to join in. My wife is stirring the risotto with our homemade chicken broth, and the stripe bass from Yellow Umbrella is roasting in the oven…….we cook, we entertain, we dine out. We’ve gotten to know some owners of local food businesses informally, like Gary at Enoteca (now only Coast), Jim over at Emersons, and just a hello to Dale at Acacia and the folks at Millie’s. We take our food seriously, buying some stuff from Belmont Butchery, running up to Thompson’s for other stuff, to Emersons for wine/cheese……
I find this top 25 conversation hilarious since there are only less than ten where I would eat…….but more later.
La Sobrasita Bakey has $20 gift certificates on sale for 5 buckaroos. Check out http://www.804halfoff.com/intro.php
Met a friend yesterday at Garnett’s…we both had tea and coffee cake. The tab was $6 for both of us…what a steal!
This comment thread has made me really proud to play host to this discussion. I’ve been holding back a lot of my own comments, because the contributions here really speak for themselves, including the personal attacks. However, since seeing this post suggested a few times in the nomination process for the RVANews Internet Awards and Richmond Good Life’s inclusion of the people’s favorite restaurants (culled from these comments) in a democratic meta-ranking, I just really want to post some kind of epilogue to welcome the new eyeballs and to propose some take-aways that rose to the surface for me (maybe you’ll want to add your own).
First, I want to thank every paid food reviewer who came on here and spoke up. Considering the way I kinda went for their collective juggular, it’s understandable that there was some defensiveness. Hopefully, they heard the veritable outpouring here.
There is good cause for general cynicism toward food reviewers, including bloggers. We get so wrapped up in our mental pictures of perfect food and the restaurant experience, I think it’s easy to get detached from everyday eating and start to resemble the stereotype of a food snob. In that way, we only succeed at fulfilling expectations with our best-of lists, instead of conveying true insights and enlightening readers about excellence in a wider range of the culinary arts.
That said, I think there’s something bigger going on than food writers falling in line behind one another at the frou-frou food trough. Rather, Richmond seems to have a kind of bipolar behavior, flocking to the high-end and low-end (whether or not they deserve the success). Meanwhile, the accessible mid-range suffers from the catch-22 of lacking options and fanfare. It’s analogous to the American hallmark of extremes in wealth and poverty and seems to fit with the context of Richmond’s the dual realities of race/class divided population.
But, hey. We’re talking about food here. It’s something to celebrate and be thankful for. One day, we’ll have a true “people’s best restaurant list.” Until then, go with your gut and support those places that you want to see survive and thrive and represent Richmond.
Dammit, Jason, you’re making me do more work. Since I’m snowed in, no problem. Culling the comments right now and hope to revise the proletariat version of your list…
Can’t believe I forgot to mention Aziza’s in my 2009 round-up. Billy is cooking with passion. Can’t wait for his woodfired pizza oven to kick the RVA pizza scene up a notch.