If I have any regrets about quitting this blog (there are lots, actually), one of them would be that I haven’t yet been to Selba, Enoteca Sogno, lunch at The Citizen, Lehja or Mama J’s with Karen, Asian Galaxy, Mas Tapas in CVille, Mediterranean Brick Oven, or Phoenix Garden Vegetarian Noodle Soup House on Brook Road. I still hope to try those places (if we can find a sitter) but I’m gonna miss the show and tell experience that blogging and tweeting afforded me.

I never meant for my blog to be about restaurants, and maybe wishful thinking here, but I hope it ultimately wasn’t. It’s like that saying, “Great people talk about ideas. Average people talk about things. Small people talk about other people.” Philosophically, I wanted to talk about ideas, but I often settled for ‘things,’ like new places to buy food. The people and their businesses usually weren’t really what I wanted to be involved with. Except, I often liked restaurants (and sometimes the people too) and wanted to spread the word (failing to articulately split hairs here). And in the case of those places listed above, I’ve got a good feeling, or feel some affinity, and I’m sad I won’t get a chance to send the 15 Caramelized OpiNIONS readers out there to follow up on my recommendations.

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Go.

Jenna Sneed says she sees a growing number of customers coming to her restaurant, Fresca on Addison, looking for lunch or dinner that won’t kill them. Never mind that Sneed’s focus is on a cuisine that hasn’t killed any animals, she’s witnessing a growing demand comprised of health consciousness customers who’re following their doctor’s orders. Often, they’ve just read because they’ve read the Dr. Caldwell’s bestselling Prevent and Reverse Heart Disease, and they’re agreeing to eliminate animal products from their diet. Making dietary choices on the advice of their doctors, isn’t new, but now more than ever, cardiologists are contributing to a critical reevaluation of our personal and collective consumption.

The message of a plant-based diet is echoed elsewhere in mainstream media and the marketplace. Healthy, local, and sustainable are all over the media and on everyone’s lips, giving the impression of a paradigm shifting popularity level and a change in society’s consciousness. But part of that new analysis isn’t getting adopted: The specific conclusion that many of our best and brightest food thinkers seem to have reached is that we need to eat less meat, if not abandon animal products all together. The arguments they make are increasingly sane and reasonable, and the prescription is often delicious. And yet, it doesn’t seem like that message has broken the habits of your average diner (or you reading this, or me writing this) and certainly not the food industry which seems to be responding with a rebellious middle finger. (more…)

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I find Sebadoh’s ballad’s more beautiful than sad, though Lou Barlow can come across as a self-obsessed drama queen. This song isn’t exactly my story, but I might occasionally identify with a line or two in there. If you do find the song morose (I don’t), try this one on for size to cleanse your palate.

When one of Karen’s upcycled furniture customers gave her a gift certificate for The Empress, I crossed my fingers that she’d take me with her for dinner.  I’ve come a long way in my regard for The Empress. Hearing numerous friends rave about the food, the service, the coffee and the specialty lemon-aides definitely made me curious.  Seeing them opening early and staying that way until late, it seemed pretty clear that they’re working hard to take advantage of every opportunity to earn customers’ repeat business.  It was tough to reconcile The Empress’ image from the one I’d constructed in my mind while trying to tell the story of developer and fraud, Justin French, pushing Enoteca Sogno out of his rental property where you now find The Empress.  And, when I finally did see The Empress for myself, I found a romantic restaurant with conscientious cuisine, and a genuinely warm and welcoming owner in Melissa Barlow.

Of the two starters, or small plates, the scallops were possibly too delicious.  The bed of sauteed leeks, along with the well seared and slightly sweet scallops, set such a high bar.  I mean, where could the meal go from here?  It even compelled me to email the man who cooked it, Aaron Hoskins, asking him to confess to putting some kind of bacon in the pan before serving it (ok. I did email him. (more…)

For those of you who missed the Portuguese wine tasting at The Empress, there’s still time to play along at home (and Genevelyn will likely have more, maybe at C’est La Vin in Shockoe Bottom). If you’re looking to pick up bottles from that event, The Empress has got’em.  But, for big box shoppers, there’s not really a great selection at Total Wine. If you’re a Kroger grocery person, you’re out of luck for Portugal’s wine. The wine guy in Carytown’s store says they only have Vinho Verde, no reds (and that I’m the second person to ask him in seven years). He also added that River City Cellars would surely have Portuguese Reds, and shop owner, Julia, confirms it.

Across the fan, in Strawberry Town, that one block of boutiques Strawberry Street Vineyards are a good source for Portuguese bottles. If you don’t see the right away, check the end of the Spanish section (probably the case with a lot of wine shops).  These range from $10-15.  Not the bargain basement buys that drew me to Portuguese wines, but well within most casual drinkers’ range.

In the wooden boxes on the ground on the right side of the store, Strawberry Street Vineyard shows off the bottles that they believe are great values.  This bottle has a nice looking label and the tasting notes/hype are appealing.  They’re almost out. Any of you tried it?

On the $6.99 rack (or 3/$20, I think), SSV carries a few from Portugal.  If you’re gambling on bargain bottles, these probably won’t be a complete waste of money. I would have bought one of each, but I need to make room in my wine rack to accommodate them (damn sober January).  Any pals wanna help me with this? Come over and distract the kids while I make dinner, and I’ll pour the wine.

While on Strawberry Street, pop into 8.5 and pick up some Caputo’s double-zero flour for your pizza dough, some plum tomatoes for your sauce (yes, they have San Marzano’s too), and a bag of Blanchard’s MammaZu blend coffee. It says “the one and only,” which seems like a backhanded reference to Rostov’s Mamma Zu coffee, which I’m assuming isn’t available anymore, or maybe not Ed Vassaio endorsed? I dunno. This stuff is muy fuerte.  Kinda like asking Ed a dumb question when he’s working: Not for the timid.

Back to Kroger… Despite not having any Portugues red wine, they were flush with Chilean stuff, another area known for its quality price ratio. Santa Rita is a brand name I hear a lot, but haven’t tried. Their entry level stuff, 120s, was on sale when I passed through. Though I didn’t pick up any bottles, it was tempting. The reviews online aren’t great or terrible. Any of you tried these?

I didn’t mean to upload this picture to the blog, but here it is. Maybe this unrelated item would actually make a good pairing, and thus it’s a happy accident. On my first trip to the Big Apple Supermercado way out on Jeff Davis Hwy, I spied cans of tomatillos. Immediately, I thought of a green pizza sauce. Next thing you know, I’ve got the can along with Queso de Oaxaca (aka: Mexican mozzarella), and some cilantro for the sauce. Back home, I whipped up a salsa verde, spread it on pizza dough, topped it with way too much of the queso, some Trader Joe’s soy chorizo, some frijoles negros for color contrast and to proclaim “pizza latina,” and lastly a bit of pineapple so I’d be able to call this monster Pizza al Pastor.  I thought it was delicious.

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Sorry this post is extra sloppy, without hot links, and less than cohesive. Just getting things out of the draft folder before closing up the blog for good.

Lunch special at The Phoenician: Falafel, spinach and feta fatayer (pie), fattoush salad, and a great lemon tahini sauce (not pictured).

Before eating at Rocoto Chicken in El Jardin Market on W. Broad, you are presented with a serving of fried cracked corn kernels.  Stay for the… everything else.

These two bottles of wine were given to Karen as a Christmas bonus. We’re assuming they’re beyond our usual spending limit. Looking forward to a night when we have dinner after the kids are asleep and we can kick back and enjoy the juice.

I couldn’t convince Jasper that he looks extremely handsome in the hat I’d just bought him on clearance for $0.97.

These fishes jockied for my attention on Christmas Eve. The bug-eyed guy and one of his friends came home with me and were turned into pescada Veracruzana. They’re “pink snappers” from a sea-food shop on Belt Boulevard.

Snazzy labels could be just the enticement you need to start using Kecap Manis sweet soy sauce. Tan-A has the un-snazzy bottles, but these were on a shelf in the little Asian store by Maldini’s on Forrest Hill Ave.

I forgive Family Thrift Center for their unsafe carts, since they’ve provided Emerson with a light-saber and me with a 1972 cookbook by Diane Kennedy.

Our pug, Frankie, loves to bask in the sun on this glider. Occasionally, he falls asleep. Even less frequently, there’s a pillow handy. (not a full-sized basketball, by the way)

IThis is the best tres leche cake I’ve ever had. My coworker lived in Mexico for 25 years and now she brings one of these to every party the office throws. Actually, I just left that job. The cake might be the thing I’ll miss the most.

Feel free to pretend that Jasper is connecting with Picasso in this picture. I asked him to look at it. He did. I asked him what he sees in the picture. “Nothing.”

The Family Peace Festival took place in Byrd Park this past year. I’d always wondered what the event was like. Turns out, it’s awesome. The music, the food vendors, the kids activities and crafts. Don’t miss it next year, Richmond.

I wanted to conclude with a picture of my beautiful wife, but they’ve all got kids stealing the scene. There’s a new priority for me: take more pictures of Karen.  This one captures her ascending the steps of the National Museum of Art with Jasper in tow.

I’ve written about him before, but I only know him as Abraham. First at Aladdin’s (from the late 90s to the late aughts). Then, until just recently, at Mediterranean Market on Meadow with partner Mustafa. Now, he’s flying solo in Carytown. Actually, in addition to his years of Middle Eastern food experience, Abraham’s got his three teenage sons, if he can wrangle them into helping out. I’m hoping Carytown will welcome this new restaurant into the fold, cuz it’s been a long time in the making. After waiting on the city for over two months for permits, it’s go time for Döner Kebab at 3459 Cary St.

The alluring conical meat stack (made of wood).

One constant at all of Abraham’s establishments is his humble pride in his food. The menu items are familiar and enticing, considering the lack of Middle Eastern cuisine in Carytown. But it’s his attention to detail that will bring you back. The sumac in the spinach pies. The very slight rosewater in the honeyed kanafeh. And then there’s the preserved lemon that pops up in every third or fourth bite of falafel.* This spice mix, along with the affordable prices, is a great addition to Carytown’s diversity.

Abraham and his eldist son (who prefers Facebook to Twitter, btw)

Although the western-most block of Carytown (east of the dueling grocery stores) isn’t really the hub of activity that you see at the eastern end, it’s an ideal location for quick takeout. Usually, there’s street parking, but if on foot, you could probably walk with hot shawarma in hand all the way to the Byrd, finishing your mobile dinner just in time for the movie.

For those keeping score at home, Carytown’s pita sandwich crown recently moved from the Eatery to Basili’s without much argument. That’s right, the chicken pita at The Eatery still claims many grease addicts, though they tend to keep it on the DL. I predict Abraham’s gyros and shawarma will make a case for a new pocket sandwich king, and his falafel will put him over the top. That is, if you all get educated on these candidates and submit your votes (sauce-drenched napkins are the official ballots).

Although there

Cheese pies, spinach and sumac (with or without feta), meat or chicken pies… At $2 a pop, they’re hard to pass up. The spinach is my favorite for it’s tartness. Nonetheless, the thing that puts Döner Kebab on the map for me is the falafel. It’s not an afterthought menu item for rabbit-food eaters. Instead, it’s thoughtfully constructed with subtlety and surprises. The salty pickled cucumber together with red onion adding sweet tang. And then there’s the odd bit that tastes distinctly of preserved lemon.* You’ve got to eat it hot to really appreciate the mildly spiced chickpea patties, though whole coriander and cumin seeds will pop in your mouth at any temperature. (within a few days of posting this, Abraham started baking the pita for his falafel and it’s made a big difference)

There’s no conclusion to this story. Not yet. We’re all still wading into Abraham’s repertoire. I’d ask that some of you help me with the homework. What the heck is “Chicken Doner?” Who will be the first one to reference an airplane crash in the Andes mountains when talking of this place? Wait. Does that say strombolis on the menu? Can’t wait to watch this unfold. Hope you enjoy it.

Noteables:

• Cash only
• Open to 3am on Friday and Saturday, 11pm on weeknights.
• No baba ghannouj yet (tell Abraham you want smokey eggplant puree NOW)

*Abraham corrected me. It’s not preserved lemons. He uses little pieces of whole fresh lemon, rind and all.

**Apparently, I need to read my history. The Donner Party were wagon-training pioneers headed for California. Essentially, a particularly hard winter caused them to break some basic tenets of strict veganism.

UPDATE 1/7/12:

On another, more recent visit, Abraham asked me to post some pictures of the gyro meat.  This monster is much less intimidating in person, especially when there’s a guy with a knife ready to cut it down to size.

Apparently, he cooks it half-way as it sits in a big stack, rotating on a spit in front of the heating element. And then it’s carved into strips.

The meat then passes through an oven before going into a pita sandwich. Did I mention that Abraham bakes his pitas fresh ever day?