Caramelized OpiNIONS - Food blog, frugality, and uncouth social action

Posts Tagged ‘brunch’

Uncategorized, brunch

February 23, 2009

Brunch at Aziza’s with Jasper

Tags: ,

Karen and I brought Jasper out for brunch to Aziza’s. Having read Brandon Fox’s write-up in Style (she heaped superlatives on their cream puffs), I made a surprise of it for Karen (previously a devotee of Jean Jacques creme puffs). Without Brandon’s review, I don’t know if I’d ever have figured out what was offered inside Aziza’s. I’d been driving or riding by, curious, but without a clue. When I heard it was Lebanese, of course, I was happy. I love Lebanese food. However, I really wasn’t prepared for the fantastic food experience that we found inside . (apologies in advance for my blurry camera phone pictures)
img00006

I wasn’t sure what to expect from a Lebanese brunch and Karen was wary of the whole surprise aspect of the meal (especially as we were lugging Jasper into the place). When they said they didn’t have decaf (Karen doesn’t do caffeine), I started to think, “Okay, here we go…” But, they had a highchair at our table in no time and presented us with a small plate of bread for baby nibbling (see pic at the bottom). The bread’s crustiness was familiar. Then I noticed their brochure explained that the Billy behind Billy Bread was behind this new restaurant venture. A good sign, if you ask me. (turns out I missed a few of these details from Brandon’s piece, and it’s not actually Billy bread. Doh!).

There were four fritatas on the menu, two were veggie. I asked the server to help me choose between mushroom and cheddar vs. olive, feta and spinach. She said their olives are so good, everything with them is not to be missed. Done deal. She also said the potatoes are on the side instead of inside the fritata, another plus as the starchy blocks ruin most of the fritatas I’ve had in Richmond. When my dish came out, it looked great. The side of “greens” was a salad with delicious olive oil (not some Costco crap used at other restaurants). And was that a few drops of balsamic? (not sure). Their were a couple kalamata olives on the side and their brine and salt suprised both Karen and me like no other olive. The potatoes were soft, savory and appropriately greasy. The centerpiece fritata was loaded with kalamata pieces, barely wilted spinach and crumbled feta. The plate basically redeemed fritatas in my book. I think it was $8 – no complaints here. But, the best was yet to come.

img000074Karen ordered the “shrimp and crab griddlecake,” served on top of eggs and toast and topped with a chunky tomato sauce. The same salad and potatoes accompanied. The griddlecake was dense with seafood and it absolutely popped with seasoning. Egg and a runny yolk put each bite into that jump up and smack yer grandpappy realm. The toast had soaked up some of the tomato sauce and tied the whole thing together with tang and chewiness. Comparisons with Cafe Rustica’s “Mediterranean Shortstack” are inevitable. I’d have to go back and try both to detail the differences, but they’re both so good and probably distinctive, that it won’t make sense to lump them together (like I’ve done here).

The meal was so good that we had to end with something sweet: a creme puff, of course. Karen loved it. The filling was light and rich and the chocolate on top turned the pastry into an ideal form of decadence (I require chocolate in desert to be truly happy). Before leaving, we ordered a couple more creme puffs to bring to friends, and some brownies. If Karen weren’t with me, I’d never have rationalized $3.50 per creme puff. But she assured me that these were easily $4 creme puffs and replaced Jean Jacques as her favorite in Richmond. We also bought a small tabbouleh and a vegetarian koosa (stuffed squash) for a future at home meal.

Aziza’s is a real find, a great addition to Richmond’s brunch scene, and a neat story that involves almost 100 years of Billy’s family history. But, for me, the real discovery is that we can indeed take our baby out for meals, as long as it’s daytime, he’s hungry, and the restaurant has a highchair and brings the bread out quickly. The little guy dropped lots of bread on the floor, but I picked it all up before we left. He also flirted with every server, and fell in love with the bright green soccer game on the flat screen over the bar. Aside from a few loud baby exclamations, he was a well behaved baby. On the way out, I spied Billy, himself behind the counter, cooking up each entree. It seemed pretty obvious to me that he’s got another culinary vision and he’s carrying it out well.  Now, if only they were open for dinner and not just lunch and weekend brunch.  Well, there’s always reheated carryout.

Jasper eating bits of Billy bread

Jasper eating bits of Billy bread

Lulu's, food

February 16, 2009

Train Wreck Brunch: Valentine’s Delay

Tags:


When the day after Valentine’s Day came, Karen and I were excited. The grandparents were taking Jasper for a few hours, leaving us time to go out for brunch and then some much needed alone time at the house. Being fans of Millie’s, we decided on Lulu’s, the sister restaurant to Richmond’s brunch mecca (and we’d never been in before). (**I want to spoil it and tell you that our meal was bad times and they waved the whole bill, so this isn’t one of those irresponsible blogger beefs. It’s just a wash. Sometimes a restaurant’s most loyal customers are people who’ve been burnt, then complained, and were taken care of, and kept coming back. That might be us, if we’re ever able to go out for meals regularly again**)


The whole thing started badly because Karen and I were kinda butting heads over the scheduling of our tiny allotment of time (my fault for being really wound up about my grad school paper deadlines). Even after finding a great parking spot by the 17th Street Farmers Market, we had a tiny black cloud over us. Not how we wanted to spend our deferred V-day. From outside, we could see that the place was packed and we worried that we’d have to go somewhere else. But, a spot opened and we got a seat in the middle of the busy-ness. We admired the details of the place, the two toned wood grain tables, clever ceiling fans, and the island of booths. Lulu’s looks like a great hang out, for eating or drinking.

On the menu, I didn’t see any sides to order ahead to snack on (like you’d find at Can Can), but everything came with potatoes (like you WON’T find at Can Can), so we were both starting to get happy although really hungry. Karen ordered the petite fillet with poached eggs and asparagus and hollandaise and I got the… what else? Huevos rancheros (none of the frittatas were veggie, so I couldn’t compare Lulu’s with Richmond’s abysmal frittata scene). There were some other interesting specials, but they’d already sold out of them by 1pm.

After some awkward moments, we made small talk about Jasper (he’d captivated us at dinner the previous night when he laughed, which made us laugh, which made him laugh, and he worked a call and response routine for almost 10 minutes to everyone’s delight). Then we launched into an unexpected discussion about our dream kitchen renovation: a reworking of our entire livingroom/diningroom/kitchen first floor. The result would be more like a “great room” for cooking and hanging out with the old kitchen space serving as the pantry of our dreams and a corner booth dining nook. We got so excited about the fantasy, I took notes down about every detail in my phone for future reference. Does anyone know a cheap home makeover pro? Oh, and we’re also gonna need about $20k. I promise I’ll blog about the whole process if you all paypal me that money ;0)

When we came out of the exciting conversation, we realized it had been about 45minutes since we’d ordered and the place was really thinning out. I made eye contact with our server enough times that she came over and apologized, saying she’d bring us some toast to hold us over (um… coulda used that 30 minutes ago – stomach complaining to brain complaining to whichever organ makes one cranky). The table next to us said their food took over an hour.

By this point, the server just hung out at the spot where the food is supposed to come out of the kitchen, throwing stressed out glances our way. Karen and I were trying our best not to think about the fact that our precious little “alone time” (on Valentine’s day, you get the drift) was being traded in for this waiting game. We checked in with each other and felt helpless that our briefly sunny dispositions were hiding behind the clouds again. The server, a really nice woman, actually, kept popping by to apologize.

Eventually Karen’s steak and eggs came out. It was stacked: meat, eggs, sauce, and two tiny asparagus spears laying across the top. Those green twigs were more of a garnish than a side. The steak was less than a half inch thick. I guess when I thought of petite, I figured it would be smaller cut of fillet mignon, but still thick. She’d ordered it medium, but it was well done – cooked all the way through (probably because it was so thin to begin with). Karen ate with little enthusiasm and I just had to sit there and watch. It was another 10-15 minutes before my dish came out and we were both getting exponentially surly. Can you see this leading to good alone time, if there would be any time at all?

When my huevos finally came out, the server apologized again saying she’d buy us desert (we declined because we had some pastries at home that we were looking forward to). Then I kinda cut her off and pointed out the steak and asparagus issues and she wanted to make it up to us and I think I said that we kinda wish we hadn’t come there to eat, sounding likewise apologetic and defeated. The server, Karen, and me all frowning and crestfallen. It was a sorry sight. I tore into the beany eggs and we both ate in silence.

Time out for the upside. The potatoes rocked. They wore the tastiest grease I’ve had at brunch in long time. My huevos had a delicious pico de gallo and every fresh tomotoey bite popped with acid and cilantro. I tried to heap praise and elevate the mood at the table, but we were kinda in a rut by then. Karen hates conflict, so I’m always the one to assert myself in these situations. If I sound like a jerk, well don’t worry. I felt like one, even though Karen agreed with my speaking up about our dissatisfaction. But, we both agreed that the coffee was nice and strong. Trying to focus on the positive now.

As we finished eating, I was going over in my head how to approach the bill. I was treating, but I didn’t feel like we should be paying for one of the entrees. I mean, I couldn’t take it out of the tip. It wasn’t likely our server’s fault and withholding the gratuity on $25 wouldn’t really be much of a trade-off. When the server came by I started to ask her how to handle it, preparing to negotiate some kind of compromise. To my surprise, she said she was not going to charge us for the meal. I was astounded, Karen breathed a sigh of relief (no Jason tantrum in the restaurant during our supposed romantic dining out). I thanked the nice lady and that was that.

Minutes later, Karen is still nibbling her potatoes cuz they’re really freakin’ good. I looked in my wallet and I have no money. I’d intended to pay with a card. How do I tip with my credit card if there’s no bill to pay? Damn. With Karen’s permission, I run out of the Lulu’s to the ATM on Main Street – really sprinting with huevos and frijoles bouncing around in my belly. When I took out a twenty, the ATM asked permission to charge me $3 on top of whatever my bank ’s service fee is. “Do you agree to this charge?” Um, is it negotiable? Grrrr! Not interested in tipping $20, I bought two pounds of fresh water cress from the produce vendor on the corner (no idea what I’ll do with’em).

Back in the restaurant, there are only a few tables left. Karen is still pecking at her plate. People, she eats like she tweets (140 bites per meal – plug for Karen’s Corner over there on the right). I put a bulging plastic bag down on the table, turning a few heads. It seemed awkward to walk out without paying, but it’s also weird to spend almost two hours having brunch. I leave $5 on the table, which probably confirms most of my readers’ suspicions that I’m not just frugal, but inappropriately cheap (whatever, I spent the rest of the day kicking myself for not leaving double that since the server advocated for us and we ended up not paying). The stars just alligned in a way that made me extra-miserly.

In the end, I figure that bad tippers and burnt customers is the cost of doing a booming business for Lulu’s and for our server. They made a shitload of money that brunch service. When quantity goes up, quality goes down. When demand is high, supply can dry up and people get pissed off. On this day, we drew both of those unlucky cards from the dining-out deck. But, I don’t have any bad feelings. Lulu’s is successful for good reason. I’ll probably go back one day, but considering our limited opportunities, less popular places just got bumped up in my queue.

brunch, food, rowland fine dining

June 22, 2008

Eating Past the Point of Enlightenment: Rowland Brunch

Tags:

When Rowland Fine Dining announced that they were starting a Sunday brunch service, I felt like I needed to try it out ASAP, before it got overrun with foodies. I mean, Rowland’s dinners have been pretty awesome in my experience. Brunch would probably be stellar as well. Well, weeks passed without my paying a visit and I haven’t heard a peep about the Rowland brunch. Until today…

At about noon, Karen and I walked up to Rowland, with Jasper in tow. We were braced for a throng of diners. To our amazement, the place was empty, save three tables. We got a secluded corner booth/table and started looking over the menu. Maybe I shouldn’t have had a preconception in my head, but I was a little disappointed with the lack of egg dishes on the menu. You know that list of fancy sounding food that comes along side the egg/french toast section of the brunch menu? The Rowland menu is mostly that stuff (more on that in a bit). However, right off the bat, we were served three great surprises that made us swoon and will surely bring me back.

Surprise # 1: Lavazza coffee. By noontime on Sunday, I NEED coffee. This stuff was strong and smooth Italian brew and it was refilled three times during my meal (for $1.50).

Surprise # 2: Instead of bread or biscuits, every table got a plate of mini banana nut muffins dusted with powdered sugar. Sublime, with the coffee. Virginia Rowland is known for her deserts and it showed with these light and tasty treats. We’ll be back for more, but as bakers like to try different things, I wouldn’t be surprised to find another flavor next time.

Surprise # 3: I asked to start with a side: Potato latke with scallion creme fresh. For four bucks, this thing was bigger and tastier than it had any right to be. AND, here were my eggs. It looked like any shredded potato pancake with a dollop of creamy stuff in the middle, but the texture was very eggy and the potatoes were undercooked to perfection, just the right amount of crunch, and the seasoning… I dunno what it was, but please give me more. Jewish treats like these willl make me happily convert.

By this point, we had about reached nirvana. The satisaction we experienced was that euphoric (probably cuz the baby was still asleep). And we hadn’t even been served our entrees. Maybe this is how Buddha got so fat, eating past the point of enlightenment. Speaking of knowledge, the list of entrees was unfamiliar brunch territory for me: mostly southern and cajun accented dishes. I was tempted by the shrimp po boy and the butterbean cakes. Karen was on the verge of ordering the skillet fried chicken with summer squash casserole (and pan gravy). Ultimately we steered toward the seafood; BBQ shrimp over creamy polenta and tuna cakes with pico de gallo.

Do those things sound fancy? Well, the fine-ness of the dining is mostly in the accents. Fried egg and prosciutto sandwich with pomme frites, apple wood bacon, Mongolian hangar steak. We’ll see how they rotate their menu when we head back. By the way, the shrimps were good, slathered in a cajun gravy that was an interesting take on BBQ sauce. The tuna cakes were filled out with some corn and rice and surrounded by a crunchy crust. On top, was a very fresh salad of toms, diced red onions and jalapeno slivers (pico de gallo, but tastier, as the menu described).

Obviously, the highlights for us were the first three rounds. I don’t think we’d go for those two entrees again, but we had plenty of other interests on the menu. Oh, and they do serve french toast, as it turns out. If you’re smart, you’ll split an entree, pile on the sides, and save room for desert.

Rowland Fine Dining is located at Main Street and Shields. Brunch goes from 10-3 on Sundays and entrees range from $7:50-13. They’ve also got some cute looking patio tables out front that you might like to try.

asparagus, coffee cake, food, jamie oliver, tart

May 7, 2008

Jamie Oliver’s Asparagus and Potato Tart

Tags:

Last week’s brunch party began in the early AM with Karen baking a delicious coffee cake that included chocolate chips, orange zest, and two layers of crusty pecan streusel. In fact, this link to the coffee cake recipe is my main reason for posting today. Work and fatherhood have gotten me behind in my blogging. Fulfilling my promise to a coworker to share this recipe compelled me to follow through despite a lack of pictures or, frankly, motivation. Luckily, the two dishes featured here are worth reading about and trying yourself.

When we saw the asparagus episode of Jamie at Home on the Food Network, we knew we had to try and make this beautiful brunch item. The asparagus and potato tart involved a couple items that we didn’t have and couldn’t find, so we substituted. The recipe called for lancashire cheese (why all the specifically English ingredients?). River City Cellars didn’t carry it, but their cheese bible recommended l’etivas, a very sharp and crumbly swiss variety. Also, Jamie showed off the tart’s crispy filo dough crust by cooking his in a tart pan with a removable rim. We didn’t have the right size tart pan, so we went with a standard Pyrex baking dish. It had to be rectangular to showcase the asparagus pinstripes properly.

On TV, the yellow and green striped tart was absolutely beautiful with its golden brown accents. However, after reading over the mixed reviews of the recipe, I started to have second thoughts. People said it was basically a fancy serving of mashed potatoes, that it needed more cheese and eggs, and that it was prettier than it was tasty. So, I added one more egg and a 1/2 cup more cheese. However, I didn’t accurately measure out 1 lb of potatoes, so I think it all balanced out. Next time, heap the cheese and double the eggs. How many potatoes makes a pound, anyhow?

The end result was a really pretty pan of cheesy fluffy potatoes wrapped with fillo and embedded with asparagus (again, I’m sorry I was too distracted to take pictures). The l’etivas cheese imparted a sharpness that stayed with you after each bite, but it was mellowed out by the fresh ground nutmeg. The asparagus on top seemed like they were mostly for visual effect. Maybe some of the attendees of our brunch party can chime in about this. I think the best addition were the four organic eggs that came from our friends’ chickens. They intensified the yellowness and the fluffiness.

Lessons learned:

  • Try at least one dish from each episode of Jamie at Home on the Food Network.
  • Push extra sweets off on the guests before they leave, otherwise, I’m stuck eating it and getting fatter.
  • Limit Jaser’s social opportunities to smaller groups. The dude got a little overstimulated and his screaming may have permanently damaged my eardrums.
  • Frankie-poo Bubbas will not be upstaged. Five out of six visitors to our house leave wanting a pug (picture soon to be uploaded).

bacchus, brunch, food, frittata, polenta

March 3, 2008

Bodacious Brunch at Bacchus (on a budget)

Tags:

Since moving to Byrd Park in 2004, I assumed that the closest restaurant, Bacchus, was an overpriced eatery intended for young aristocratic swilling and $25-30 entrees. The cheap half-portions of pasta almost inspired Karen and me to walk the seven blocks for dinner, but something about the place just turned me off. Maybe it was the knowledge that one of the worst restaurants in Richmond had flourished in that Main and Meadow location before graduating to Broad Street bistro status. Surely, more overpriced underachieving had followed in its place.

Last week’s Style noted that Bacchus is now offering Sunday brunch. Our recent weekend morning stroll to Cirrus was sorta underwhelming. But this trip was shorter and it gave me an excuse to peek inside an eatery that I’ve always found foreboding. I just hoped that this treat wouldn’t be too expensive. The day after our babyshower, Karen and I walked to Bacchus for Sunday brunch (they don’t do Saturday, btw). (it turns out that Style broke the news after 7-8 weeks of Bacchus brunches)

First of all, I don’t consider myself a brunchaholic. I don’t muncha buncha bruncha while downing bloody maries. Hair of the dog? No thanks. But I do jump at the chance to eat fancied up eggs in a relaxed setting. In my opinion, most Richmond brunch menus consist of the same boring line-up and feature unadventurous flavors. One exception is Kuba Kuba, and another is… of course, Millies. While I’m not ready to rank Bacchus with those two, I do think the brunch scene just gotten a little more interesting.

The mouth-watering 34 entree menu begins predictably with four varieties of eggs benedict, a simple dish that’s too labor intensive for most of us to make at home. These feature a variety of meat and seafood that help justify the $10-12 price. From here, the fare launches into the Mediterranean with a list of inspired flavor combinations and very affordable prices. Read that last line over again, please. It’s the one thing I want you to take away from this story and probably what’s going to lure me back into Bacchus.

The next section of the menu involves polenta; with eggs, or sausage, or shrimp, all between $5-9. I had to try it. Luckly, polenta can also be had as a side, with marinera, for an extra $2. So, despite my curiosity, I kept looking. Below the polenta is a curious heading “Egg dishes with breakfast potato.” What the heck is a breakfast potato? Well, they’re homefries spiked with fennel, but the real excitement is generated by the additions to the eggs: gorganola, spinach, saffron, or olive oil fried (from $4-6). Karen got the eggs carbonara with basil: creamy, meaty, herby eggs. She loved finding something on the menu that she hadn’t heard of and plans to roll her leftovers in a tortilla for the next day’s breakfast on the go. For an extra two bucks, she got a side of perfectly cooked asparagus.

I chose from a list of eight delicious sounding frittatas ($6-9). These things are big and pretty and it had me wondering if there was any difference between the Italian frittata and the Spanish tortilla. They don’t come with breakfast potato, but there are usually spuds embedded. The wild mushroom and ricotta frittata sounded good, but I had a lot of trouble choosing. One of them simply says “spaghetti”. Chef Chris (who looks familiar, but I’m not sure where from) says it’s eggs, potatoes and spaghetti. Maybe one of you will have to order it and leave a comment to clue the rest of us in. I got the smoked salmon, roasted red pepper, and cream cheese frittata and I was very pleased to see that it was wearing some tasty saffron creme. Before I was halfway done, I was full and picking through the potatoes and egg for the remaining salmon and peppers.

For many, brunch doesn’t stop at eggs, and at Bacchus, there are a dozen or so salads ($5-7), pancakes ($6-7), a steak ($12), seafood dishes ($12-16), and an Iron Chef impressing Kobe beef burger ($12). Some of these incorporate eggs and all of them sound like a good way to start the day. Can you tell that I lifted one of their menus?

A note on the eating environment. Karen and I had a some time to take in the surroundings because we got there just as they were getting slammed. Chef Chris may have been in the weeds, but you wouldn’t know it. His kitchen sits in plain view of the diners and the dude looked stoic. It also seemed that help was on the way, as another employee seemed to be apprenticing – watching his every move. Meanwhile, our server answered my every question, keeping us supplied with cornbread and butter and always refilling my coffee.

Along the bar sit a row of posh looking cushioned high-backed bar stools. I could see why people flock to this place for a cocktail on a cold night, because it does look like a comfortable setting. Personally, I’ll probably stick to the brunches, but you never know. For me, there’s more to Bacchus than I would have predicted. You can bet I’ll be trying the saffron eggs or the fried goat cheese salad on my next visit.

biscuits, cirrus, food, vegan

November 26, 2007

Sunday Brunch at Cirrus Taken Too Seriously

Tags:

I should have written about Cirrus at Allen and Main before having brunch there. I would have talked of the chic interior, homemade biscuits and vegetarian white gravy, and moderate entrée prices. These points still make up the bulk of my story and will probably bring me back to eat there again. But, after my Sunday brunch at experience, my Cirrus sales pitch comes with some disclaimers, and now I’ve got my fingers crossed that Cirrus’ potential and obvious good ideas will turn into a great eatery.

First off, I want to fess up that I’m somewhat biased in favor of any restaurant at Allen and Main. My first Richmond apartment was right across the street ten years ago, and my wife and I celebrated our engagement at Dogwood Grille (RIP), the space’s previous occupant. Also, it’s within walking distance of my house in Byrd Park. Lastly, and for the record, the good folks at Cirrus have enabled me to write about one of my favorite foods of all time: biscuits and “sausage” gravy. And for that, they’ll always have a place in my heart.

For these reasons, I was excited when I saw the brunch menu in the window at Cirrus. Seeing the vegetarian biscuits and gravy on the menu put a trip to Cirrus at the top of my priority list. (Well, that and the allure of reasonably priced entrees, with an modern black/white backdrop.) Surely, this place was going to be a hipster brunch destination. That said, I want to acknowledge that you really can’t judge a restaurant by it’s brunch service. The head chef is rarely on duty weekend mornings and the dishes don’t usually receive the attention that you’ll find on the dinner menu (aside from Millies, of course). So, please take this review for what it is: a story of brunch, over scrutinized.

Considering that Style Weekly had just posted dueling reviews (both relatively positive), I was sure that Cirrus would be crammed with people enjoying a holiday weekend indulgence by going out to brunch. We walked up to the place at 11:20am, but were the first customers of the day. Inside, we sat in the two-tone dining room feeling kind of awkward and receiving loads of friendly attention from our server. My wife loved the interior design, but I would describe it as severe and cold (not that there’s anything wrong with that). I kept wondering if I had anything in my wardrobe that would disguise my crunchy granola look and help me fit in with the austere environment. Nonetheless, the shimmering pendant lights and matte silver and white sconces are touches that deserve to be seen by everyone, regardless of your attire. Hopefully, they’ll complete their design by painting or replacing the wood grain entrance, which sticks out like a sore thumb.

At first, I was worried about the brunch menu because there was no mention of sides. Would a plate of quiche, or eggs and bacon come unaccompanied, like at Can Can? Paying extra for must-have elements is a major pet peeve for me. Luckily, everything comes with homefries (except for the breakfast pizza, which sounded so decadent that you wouldn’t want anything more).

My wife ordered eggs benedict (we’ll address my dish in a minute). When our respective plates arrived, I was alarmed at the whiteness of the home fries, so I rushed to put one in my mouth before the server left. Yup. Raw potatoes. Some feint skillet marks could be seen on a few of he diced spuds, but most of them actually crunched like apples. For the rest of the meal, we were showered with apologies. We laughed it off. “Hey, at least we know they’re fresh, right?” was all I could muster. Potatoes take time, so one would think that an 11am brunch opening would have given them time to prep the side dish that accompanies every breakfast item on the menu.

The potato mistake turned out to be a good thing, actually, because they quickly brought out some potatoes wedges and thin cut sweet potato fries. Both were seasoned heavily and put smiles on our faces. This was ironic, because the uncooked potatoes had next to no flavor, making me wonder if they would have been worth eating regardless. At any rate, they quickly brought Grey Poupon when I requested it for my sweet potato fries. This is a perfect combination, as I learned from years of eating at Ipanema Café. They should just bring a bottle of the stuff out with each sweet potato fry order to ensure that every diner experiences that revelatory flavor combination. The eggs benedict wasn’t bad, with it’s perfectly poached egg and rich hollandaise. The only fault was the piled-on rough-cut ham, which, according to my wife, made the dish too salty. She just removed some of it and moved on.

Like clockwork, I ordered the vegetarian biscuits and (fake) sausage gravy. At this point, I should probably stop and explain my fixation with this dish. My parents have been ordering the real sausage stuff at diners and Denny’s since I was a kid. When I got serious about vegan cooking, I quickly learned that it is ridiculously easy to make tasty white gravy at home and then spike it with store bought fake meat (that link is the best recipe). When this gloppy goodness is served on top of fluffy biscuits, it’s the ultimate comfort food. My wife, who eats meat, loves my vegan version and frequently urges me to make it for her. For me, to have this brought to my table at an eatery just blocks from my home was a dream come true.

Well, almost. The version served at Cirrus featured some great homemade biscuits, but the gravy lacked the copious amounts of black pepper that gives white gravy it’s punch (and the charming black speckles in white sauce would fit the aesthetic of the Cirrus decor). Hopefully, they’ll refine their recipe in time, because I know that there is a constituency in Richmond that will beat a path to their door for good vegetarian biscuits and peppery (fake) sausage gravy. Okay, while I’m being a know-it-all critic, I’ll say that the barely flavored TVP that was added to the gravy needs to be replaced with commercially produced soy sausage (from Twin Oaks, Gimmelean, Morningstar Farms, etc.). Homemade “soysage” rarely packs the punch that puts this dish over the savory edge. Store-bought may be expensive, but it saves prep-time, and a little goes a long way in white gravy. Did I mention that constructive criticism is an act of love? I really feel like a heel for airing all of my pet peeves and smug suggestions. And in the end, flawed vegan biscuits and gravy is better than no vegan biscuits and gravy.

All in all, I’m excited about Cirrus, despite my complaints. All the indicators point to the probability that the details that I focused on were exceptions to the standard practice at Cirrus. Next time around, I’m going to try their dinner service where I’ve noticed more veggie options and I’ll find something fashion forward to wear for the occasion.

————–

After reading this post, my wife informed me that a) Cirrus has brown and white interior and not black and white (more evidence that I’m going color blind) and b) that I went overboard with my dissection of the biscuits and gravy. Ya know what? She’s right. The food at Cirrus all smacks of homemade goodness and care – undeserving of my anal-retentive vegan-nazi fundamentalism. Shit, I’m not even vegan anymore. My point is that the inspiration for my diatribe wasn’t Cirrus’ food, it was my adoration of the perfect batch of biscuits and gravy that exists in my mind. Sunday brunch was simply a convenient excuse to prattle on about one of my favorite foods.